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Pilgrim's Progress 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: (complete) Patrick Munn, Dominic Eisinger
Season: Dry
Page Views: 1,312
Submitted By: thomas chervenak on May 29, 2009
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Chris Duca on the 1st pitch.
  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Route Description 

    Route Location:
    Continue past The Fast Gun to a large flat clearing with several bolted lines. Pilgrim's Progress starts at the far right end of the clearing at a semi-detached block with bolts on the right-hand side of it. Chris Duca

    Route Beta:
    Three great pitches with each offering unique and thoughtful challenges. Pitch one wanders up a thin face with a nice crux demanding good problem solving.(10a) Climb past the first set of anchors if you plan on climbing the next pitch, there are another set of bolts about twenty feet higher.

    Pitch two follows the arrowhead shaped detatched flake past some bolts up to a very technical thin seam. Fun on your toes small gear placements take you past a couple of unnecessary bolts to a bolted anchor.(10c) I really liked the climbing on this pitch. The seam never really gives you good jams and the feet aren't great either, requiring some patience to get the gear while in insecure stances.

    Pitch three takes you up a series of beautiful triangular roofs. This pitch is probablly the coolest looking feature on the cliff and happens to be really hard too! Tough and awkward stemming brings you to a baffling crux pull through the first roof followed by relentless cranking, landing you at a perfect belay. This pitch is tough at 5.11.



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    By Chris Duca
    Administrator
    From: Havertown, PA
    Jun 29, 2009
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

    Route Location:
    Continue past The Fast Gun to a large flat clearing with several bolted lines. Pilgrim's Progress starts at the far right end of the clearing at a semi-detached block with bolts on the right-hand side of it.

    Gear:
    Mostly small gear (RPs, small to mid-size nuts, and cams up to #1 will suffice) and draws. Double ropes help to speed up the rappel, but climbing on a single 60m works just as well.

    By Matt Salter
    Jun 14, 2011
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

    Great line. BUT, that second pitch is very tenuous. Felt more like 10+/11- to me. Also, the last pitch is great .10 climbing to a very technical and burly crux. Felt hard for 11c to me, maybe b/c it is rather out of character for the cliff?