Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Route Location: Continue past The Fast Gun to a large flat clearing with several bolted lines. Pilgrim's Progress starts at the far right end of the clearing at a semi-detached block with bolts on the right-hand side of it. Chris Duca
Route Beta: Three great pitches with each offering unique and thoughtful challenges. Pitch one wanders up a thin face with a nice crux demanding good problem solving.(10a) Climb past the first set of anchors if you plan on climbing the next pitch, there are another set of bolts about twenty feet higher.
Pitch two follows the arrowhead shaped detatched flake past some bolts up to a very technical thin seam. Fun on your toes small gear placements take you past a couple of unnecessary bolts to a bolted anchor.(10c) I really liked the climbing on this pitch. The seam never really gives you good jams and the feet aren't great either, requiring some patience to get the gear while in insecure stances.
Pitch three takes you up a series of beautiful triangular roofs. This pitch is probablly the coolest looking feature on the cliff and happens to be really hard too! Tough and awkward stemming brings you to a baffling crux pull through the first roof followed by relentless cranking, landing you at a perfect belay. This pitch is tough at 5.11.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Havertown, PA Jun 29, 2009 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
Route Location: Continue past The Fast Gun to a large flat clearing with several bolted lines. Pilgrim's Progress starts at the far right end of the clearing at a semi-detached block with bolts on the right-hand side of it.
Gear: Mostly small gear (RPs, small to mid-size nuts, and cams up to #1 will suffice) and draws. Double ropes help to speed up the rappel, but climbing on a single 60m works just as well.
By Matt Salter Jun 14, 2011 rating: 5.11+7a24VIII24E4 6a
Great line. BUT, that second pitch is very tenuous. Felt more like 10+/11- to me. Also, the last pitch is great .10 climbing to a very technical and burly crux. Felt hard for 11c to me, maybe b/c it is rather out of character for the cliff?