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California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 7. Lower Cathed…
> Mecca
Pilgrimage (New North Face)
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Mecca
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Beggar's Buttress T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Counterparts S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Empire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Eye of the Hurricane S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flying High T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geek For A Week S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Giblit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jungle Boogie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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King and I S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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King for a Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Last of the Mohicans S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mecca Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Meccaphobia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mechanical Advantage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Peasant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pilgrimage (New North Face) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rock Monkey Rebellion S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Scrubby Corner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shock the Monkey S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Superstition S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Trick of the Tail S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Velvet Elvis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 430 ft (130 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Steve Gerberding and Al Swanson (1997 - 1998) |
| Page Views: | 1,109 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Jun 4, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A mixed sport and trad climb towards the left end of Mecca. This will be the first climb you encounter after walking downhill to the left of Scrubby Corner and Meccaphobia. Look for bolts up a black waterstreak. Aside from the final 60ft of p3, the rock is solid and the climbing is good quality. Like the rest of the climbs at Mecca, this route gets afternoon shade in summer and all-day shade when the days are shorter.
Pitch 1 (11b) Climb the bolts up the waterstreak, trending left after about 50ft. The bolts end at the base of a shallow corner. Climb the corner past a couple more tricky sections, and then traverse left past one more bolt to the anchor. A long and full-value pitch.
Pitch 2 (11b) Traverse left from the anchor and follow bolts up. At the second bolt is a difficult traverse right, and then at the final bolt is a huge reach (or small jump) to a crimp dish.
Pitch 3 (10c) Immediately traverse right into the dirty crack then climb straight up to a ledge system. Angle up and left across ledges to a stem box with a big hanging flake which forms a roof. Handjam out the left side of the roof and then climb up a short chimney with loose stacked flakes. This bring you to another bolted anchor at the top of a tower called "The Crow's Nest".
The New North Face (V, 5.11 A3+) continues from here to the top of Lower Cathedral. See the Sloan/Putnam "Yosemite Bigwalls" book for a topo.
Descend Pilgrimage by rapping the route with two 60m ropes.
Pitch 1 (11b) Climb the bolts up the waterstreak, trending left after about 50ft. The bolts end at the base of a shallow corner. Climb the corner past a couple more tricky sections, and then traverse left past one more bolt to the anchor. A long and full-value pitch.
Pitch 2 (11b) Traverse left from the anchor and follow bolts up. At the second bolt is a difficult traverse right, and then at the final bolt is a huge reach (or small jump) to a crimp dish.
Pitch 3 (10c) Immediately traverse right into the dirty crack then climb straight up to a ledge system. Angle up and left across ledges to a stem box with a big hanging flake which forms a roof. Handjam out the left side of the roof and then climb up a short chimney with loose stacked flakes. This bring you to another bolted anchor at the top of a tower called "The Crow's Nest".
The New North Face (V, 5.11 A3+) continues from here to the top of Lower Cathedral. See the Sloan/Putnam "Yosemite Bigwalls" book for a topo.
Descend Pilgrimage by rapping the route with two 60m ropes.
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