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Piles of Trials 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Greg Hand and Bob D'Antonio, 1996
Page Views: 2,973
Submitted By: Dan Green on Jun 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Description 

This route is super fun with an array of different kinds of movement on a short rock. Start by making some delicate slab moves into a bulge with small, but positive crimpers. Traverse under the roof via more intense crimping and pull into the roof on good finger buckets. Make a powerful move to a giant jug and then power up through more good crimping. Just a great route!

Protection 

6 bolts.


Photos of Piles of Trials Slideshow Add Photo
Ian just barely cutting feet on the dyno.
Ian just barely cutting feet on the dyno.

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By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 6, 2002

I really liked this route -- the ledge after the traverse makes it too tempting to rest/shake out before pulling through the crux to the upper arete. Both versions, 12b or 12c direct makes for a nice route with many different types of climbing (slab, crimping, power, laybacks, etc.) protecting the anchors.
By Joe Collins
Jun 20, 2003
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I did this the other day via the 12b way, and I have to say that this version is nowhere near as indirect as Rolofson's guide states. All the holds you use to skip the 12c section are within 2-3 feet to the right of the 4th bolt. I agree that going way right to the rest is pretty indirect, but firing straight up the bulge (the 12c way), dynoing to the jug and skipping all the good holds just to the right, is very contrived. Good route though.
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jun 20, 2003

The name "Piles of Trials" comes from an old Moody Blues song with the refrain "Face piles of trials with smiles...." While equipping the climb, I was in the midst of severe back pain. As I was moving my pack at the base of the climb, the ACL in my right knee exploded! I got a knee brace and came out of my hospital bed for the first ascent. Then I took up golf, and the rest is history....
For historical information, FA 2 April 1996.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 2, 2004

I can't even figure out the dyno version. There is a jug to clip the second roof bolt and a layback directly above to reach the lip jug more or less static. What the hell is off route on this route?
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 25, 2006

Sorry to contradict, but I felt that the 12b right variation was way contrived, traversing away from the obvious line and that the 12c dyno was the natural way to go. Besides that, the dyno is possibly the wildest single move I have done on any route in Boulder Canyon! If you think you know how to dyno, then go out and give this amazing huck a try.
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Jul 15, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Spectacular! Both versions seem perfectly legit to me, but the dyno (from the sharp flake left and the flaky sidepull right) is simply awesome. Pumpy before and after that too. Just a great sport climb.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2012

Contrived? I think you should do it the way it looks most fun. I threw a right knee pad on and jammed it in near the top at the rest. I guess this makes the route 10b/c the way I did it. Either way you do it, its a good route and climbs alot better than it looks. The moves on the top after the jug horn are super fun. I smiled when I did this route....
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Nov 3, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This route is super good, you must do the dyno. It's amazing and may be one of the sickest moves I've done on a Boulder area climb. Also, maybe it's just me, but I stuck the dyno my first try but could not link the moves after, and they are turning out to be the crux for me. Anyone have beta they want to share?
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2012

I only did the route once for the onsight recently, but I clearly remember using a small, sharp crimp for the right hand that has a tick on it. Locking off on that and getting your left foot up on the jug (the one you dyno to) is the crux. Once you're standing on the jug with your left foot, I bear hugged the block the rest of the way. Have fun with it. It's a great route. The 12a to the left of this is awesome too....
By slim
Administrator
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Interesting route. For me, the crux ended up actually being at the start of the rightwards traverse (getting into the the good hold at the start without getting tangled up in the rope). The feet through here are tough to see and kind of slippery. The rest of it was pretty sequency, but I didn't really ever dyno (used more lower leg flagging instead). One last compression type of move to get stood up onto the headwall.