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Sayers' Wall
Routes Sorted
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Electric Swimming Pool S 
Mad Scientist Variation, The TR 
Mad Scientist, The S 
Mantle of the Leprechaun, The S 
Pike's Peak S 

Pike's Peak 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: see the Green RRCOS guidebook
Page Views: 3,376
Submitted By: Kris Carter on Dec 11, 2004

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This position is just left of the first bolt.

Description 

This the 3rd route from the left on Sayers' Wall. It has the obvious start in the middle of the wall. It involves smearing with good protection. It seems hardest at the start. Move up and left until a solid finish up to the anchor. This is a solid climb and is worth doing.

Protection 

Very well bolted - 5 bolts to a solid 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Pike's Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Gabby on the lower section of Pikes Peak.
Gabby on the lower section of Pikes Peak.
Climber at the top of Pikes Peak, rope line marked...
Climber at the top of Pikes Peak, rope line marked...
Photo of the start to the route.
Photo of the start to the route.
Morgan Luke learning on Pikes Peak.
Morgan Luke learning on Pikes Peak.
Ashley cruising up Pikes Peak.
Ashley cruising up Pikes Peak.
Quick mantle near the top.
Quick mantle near the top.
A look at the route.
BETA PHOTO: A look at the route.

Comments on Pike's Peak Add Comment
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By Livia
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 13, 2005

The route has 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Agreed that the start is the trickiest portion of the route.Very nice slab about 15 feet to first bolt. There is 25 foot (or so) between bolts 3 and 4. The climb is a ladder of ledges and jugs at that point, but perhaps something to consider if throwing a new leader on this route.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 29, 2005

As others have stated, the first couple bolts are the hardest portion of the climb. It is an enjoyable climb and the view is great. Thanks to all who put the effort into developing this area...it's great!!!
By Anna Moore
Jun 25, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I really like this route, Getting to the first bolt is the most interesting part but once you get there it gets a lot easier. Between the 3rd and 4th bolt there's a long section but it's got awesome texture on it. The belay platform at the top is large and has a great view. This was also the first route I lead climbed myself. Definitely a good practice route for people who have never lead climbed outside.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 18, 2009

Bold first lead - I wouldn't recommend it to a new leader. Nice route though.
By Stewart M. Green
Apr 29, 2010

Last summer I replaced the Fixe ring anchors on Pike's Peak with bolt hangers for lowering. Since that time, some people continue to top-rope this route with their rope directly through the bolt anchors. The sawing motion is starting to sharpen the hangers, weakening them and making them potentially dangerous. I didn't replace the used ring anchors with new ones since the cost is almost $30 and having them there will only encourage some folks to continue their unsafe top-rope techniques....

Last evening I added a couple of quick links to the hangers to facilitate rappelling and lowering. Be advised that if you do top-rope with your rope through the links, then your rope will get kinks. Always use your own equipment, including a couple slings with locking carabiners, to create an equalized anchor for top-roping. There is no excuse to top-rope through existing hangers, it's just laziness.

If you want to know why you shouldn't top-rope through bolt anchors and some suggestions on rigging a safe anchor, read my article at my Climbing website at about.com climbing.about.com/od/topropec...
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 8, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Just want to second what Stewart said. Please, people, hang your own slings for top-roping. Last person should clean and rap off. TRing off permanent anchors is very bad style; anchors should not have to be replaced simply because they're getting worn from improper top roping.

Fun climb and real easy; I gotta go with the guidebook on this one: 5.6.
By Michael Neuder
From: Colorado Springs, Co
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun traversing pitch. First moves are fun. The climb is very well protected. Worth doing.
By Jeff King
Aug 6, 2012

Fun climb! Great slab, thin hand holds the first 20 - 30 ft. and between bolts 3 and 4, and nice jugs the rest of the way.

Rock is a bit soft. A couple decent-sized holds near second bolt broke off with very little pressure while climbing a couple days ago. Heads up, belayers!