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Pigsty 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rich Gottlieb, Richard Tyrell - 1979
Page Views: 1,015
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Pigsty, 5.8, Jamestown, AL.

Description 

This underrated Rich Gottlieb line is a really excellent moderate. It includes some interesting choices to make on route finding, and a big crack near the top that's harder than it looks.

Start on some slabby face climbing with sparse pro, moving up to a bulge/shallow roof. Surmount the bulge and continue up to a fairly wide crack (fist or wider); climb through the crack and on to the top.

Location 

A short distance left of Yum Yum Tree; watch for a wide blackened crack near the top of the cliff.

Protection 

A standard rack including a good range of cams up to 4" for the crack up high. Bolted anchors.


Photos of Pigsty Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: my introduction to the slop on Pigsty. (get dirty ...
my introduction to the slop on Pigsty. (get dirty ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pigsty at Jamestown...in the summer.
Pigsty at Jamestown...in the summer.

Comments on Pigsty Add Comment
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By Brian Murphey
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 19, 2015

Just did this route last weekend. It is definitely worthwhile - a really nice route with a little bit of everything, and easy to protect. Unfortunately, it is dirty (hence the name). A brush is recommended! Maybe if it gets enough traffic, that won't be the case anymore.
By westry
Dec 14, 2015

everything seemed dry around us... but not in the pig pen!!! I agree with the previous post, it is a nice route, but that crack was so muddy it became a bit of a battle on lead. go for it, but be prepared to get dirty!

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