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West Face - Right Side
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Pigs in Bondage 
Shit for Brains 
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Unknown? 

Pigs in Bondage 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jack Roberts and John Allen, 1985
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 9, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

A direct finish to El Camino Real. More interesting climbing than joining up with Jensen's Jaunt.

P1: 5.10a? Go straight up the 5.8 finger crack through a bush then stay left. The crux is gaining the next crack system that heads left after the bush. Easier to stay right of the bush and traverse in left when the crack becomes good again. Harder slab to go straight into the next crack from the bush. Stay left on the best climbing and don't rejoin Jensen's Jaunt. Climb a full 55m pitch and belay wherever looks good.

P2: 5.8ish Traverse hard left, following easy climbing and good cracks. There will be a good little bush growing out of a crack and a FAT BOLT painted black on the slab directly above this little bush. 5.8ish slab moves up to the bolt then run it out to the top on easier slab. Another full 55m pitch.


Location 

Start at the top of P3 of El Camino Real, right after the classic lieback. From the 3 bolt anchor (2 good, 1 button). Up and left for a pitch, then traverse left and slab climb to the summit.


Protection 

thin to 2", long slings



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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
May 22, 2010

Is pitch 2 of this perhaps the left hand finish described in Fingertrip?

By The Gray Tradster
May 22, 2010

Not even close!

After rereading maybe they did traverse all the way over to Fingertrip,
There isn't anything on that finish that is remotely close to 5.8 though, so it may be a recently placed bolt.

By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Aug 4, 2010

As the photo chris linked indicates, I think we may have gone all the way to the Fingertrip finish. The Vogel guide lists this route very vaguely. Is there any other info about it?

By Benjamin Quinones
Oct 1, 2012

Two years later I can confidently say that the finish is NOT the Fingertrip Slab! There is a slab between Fingertrip and Coffin Nail that is slightly more difficult than the end of Fingertrip 5.9 R ish and it is painted black.

By Tradoholic
Oct 22, 2013

Did the crux over the bush, got to the slab and saw the rusty 1/4in bolt, no thanks. Contrived to go up the slab anyway.