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South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bleed Between the Lines 
Breakfast of Champions 
Crimping Lessons 
Mamunia 
Middle Age Crazy 
Middle Age Crisis 
Middle Age Savage 
My Laundry 
Piggle Pugg 
Shooting Star 
Solid Gold 
Such a Savage 
Such a Waste 
Walking Pneumonia 

Piggle Pugg 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Spencer Lennard and Chris Robbins, December 1977
Page Views: 909
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: Finger Crack Great Route!

Description 

Start 20' right of Breakfast of Champions (5.8+) and climb the right-facing flake with a thin crack in the back. Higher, climb up and left on plates to join BOC at it's first pitch anchors. Rap off or continue up the fun second pitch of Breakfast Of Champions.

This is a really fun lieback flake that doesn't get done as much as it deserves as most people are at the Astro Domes to do the classic face routes like Solid Gold and Figures. Great moves and good gear are found on this worthwhile climb that is worth checking out, whether waiting for a classic to open up or just to log some extra mileage. Three stars out of five.


Protection 

Pro to 2.5" and bolted anchor/rap.



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Close up of the Finger Crack
BETA PHOTO: Close up of the Finger Crack
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By Craig Clarence
Mar 11, 2003

We thought this route was really good, with a clean thin lieback crux vaguely reminiscent of Valley climbing. The tough moves protect well with blue and green Aliens.

By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 16, 2006

Sustained crux. Gear can be a little strenuous to place, but this line can be sewed up with stoppers and TCUs. Shares anchors with the first pitch of "Breakfast of Champions" and can be easily toproped after climbing that route.

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I've both led and toproped this climb and it is a much different experience both ways. It is difficult and awkward to see around the corner to place gear, making leading significantly more strenuous than toproping.