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Start 20' right of Breakfast of Champions (5.8+) and climb the right-facing flake with a thin crack in the back. Higher, climb up and left on plates to join BOC at it's first pitch anchors. Rap off or continue up the fun second pitch of Breakfast Of Champions.
This is a really fun lieback flake that doesn't get done as much as it deserves as most people are at the Astro Domes to do the classic face routes like Solid Gold and Figures. Great moves and good gear are found on this worthwhile climb that is worth checking out, whether waiting for a classic to open up or just to log some extra mileage. Three stars out of five.
Pro to 2.5" and bolted anchor/rap.
BETA PHOTO: Close up of the Finger Crack
|By Craig Clarence|
Mar 11, 2003
We thought this route was really good, with a clean thin lieback crux vaguely reminiscent of Valley climbing. The tough moves protect well with blue and green Aliens.
|By Tyler Logan|
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 16, 2006
Sustained crux. Gear can be a little strenuous to place, but this line can be sewed up with stoppers and TCUs. Shares anchors with the first pitch of "Breakfast of Champions" and can be easily toproped after climbing that route.
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I've both led and toproped this climb and it is a much different experience both ways. It is difficult and awkward to see around the corner to place gear, making leading significantly more strenuous than toproping.