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High Caliber Corridor
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Mr. Personality S 
Pigeons on the Roof T 

Pigeons on the Roof 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Kennedy, Mark Bauer and friends
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: Ryan Curry on Mar 8, 2010

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The escher like overlaps of the classic Pigeons o...

Description 

Probably the best route at the grade in Woodfords, Pigeons on the Roof offers up an array of climbing challenges in an incredible position. With just about every climbing style represented this pitch reveals it's many cruxes like so many chapters in an epic novel.
Chapter One:
Surmount a steep roof right off the deck via a powerful boulder problem to gain a short, thin book. Thin pro combined with difficult moves probably make this the technical crux of the climb.
Chapter Two:
Move easily up to a second, steeper corner, the base of which has some looseness to it. Crank up the corner utilizing thin pro and beautiful moves.
Quality.
Chapter Three:
At a pumping "rest" assess the crack looming above. Then cast off into the wide, physical slot/crack that defines draining. A long reach helps here.
Chapter Four:
Exit the slot to an overhanging and seemingly blank dihedral. Finesse your way upwards with precise body english. What helped those with long arms on the previous section will hurt them now. The vertically-challenged will find this stretch easier.
Chapter Five:
Escape the corner left, clip a bolt, and send the 5.10 slab to the top.

Location 

Pigeons on the Roof starts above the fourth class step on the right side of the High Caliber Corridor The line is inobvious at first; look for a short corner near the ground with an undercut roof at its base. Once on the route it becomes apparent (as it's the natural weakness).
The bolts at the top are also a rap station for climbers descending from the climbs located above. This makes it easy to set Pigeons up as a TR. Using directionals helps to get back on if you fall as the climb is deceptively steep and leans to the left.

Protection 

Micro wires, standard stoppers and a single set of cams from 3/8" to 3". The pitch ends at a two-bolt rap station with chains.


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By Ryan Curry
Mar 8, 2010

Dan Kennedy fired the top slab section without the bolt on it's first ascent. He graciously suggested a bolt be placed as to protect future leaders. A bold effort that topped out a great climb.