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Pigeon Spire

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Cooper-Kor T 
West Ridge T 

Pigeon Spire  


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Elevation: 10,354'
Location: 50.7189, -116.785 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 56,927
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006
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Description 

The Pigeon Spire sits to the west of Snowpatch Spire dividing the Bugaboo and Vowell Glaciers. The classic West Ridge is by far the most popular route on the spire and the main descent for all other routes. The East face is the largest and most impressive side of the spire and easily viewable from the Pigeon Fork of the Bugaboo Glacier.

Getting There 

There are two approaches for the Pigeon Spire depending on your destination. For the North Face and the West Ridge take the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col to the Upper Vowell Glacier. For the South and East Faces take the Bugaboo Glacier West passing the South Face of Snowpatch along the way. Both approaches require glacier travel and can take one to two hours depending on the route your trying to get to.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.0 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pigeon Spire:
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   
Cooper-Kor   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Classics in Pigeon Spire

Featured Route For Pigeon Spire
5.9 variation to get to upper slabs.

Cooper-Kor 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b North America : Canada : ... : Pigeon Spire
This route is not direct by any means but it has good quality pitches and some bold scary traversing, especially for the second. My partner and I were able to do the climb in 11 pitches by stretching out a 60m rope. The following pitch descriptions are how we climbed the route.P1/2: Start near the left side of the East Face and climb a right-angling flake and crack system for one pitch. Then continue up more cracks to the left end of a large ledge (5.7).P3: Traverse to the right side of the...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Pigeon Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Pigeon summit
Pigeon summit
Pigeon Spire and the Howsers from the West Face of...
Pigeon Spire and the Howsers from the West Face of...
Don't drop your camera in the crack at the top.
Don't drop your camera in the crack at the top.
It's naked time!
It's naked time!
Pigeon as seen from Snowpatch.
Pigeon as seen from Snowpatch.
Climbers En Route to the East Creek Bivy with Pige...
Climbers En Route to the East Creek Bivy with Pige...

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