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Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
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In the Heat of the Sun T,TR 
LadyFingers T,TR 
Manhandler T 
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle T,TR 
No Stranger to the Fist T,TR 
Obduracy T,TR 
Pigeon Roof T,TR 
Power of a Good Haircut TR 
Rainman T,TR 
Saturday Forever T,TR 

Pigeon Roof 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 918
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Feb 24, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Alex and the #6 C4

Description 

This route climbs the big crack on the east face of Minor Mass. From below the roof looks imposing, but it is surprisingly easy. Above the roof ... is the crux!

An initial, scrambling start on the left (west) side of the lower wall takes you to the big ledge system that runs under the upper face, from the saddle on the left to the gully on the right.

A few strenuous moves in the dihedral get you established on the wall. At the overhang, keep your eyes peeled for holds beside the crack.

Once past the overhang, a combination of arm bars and tiny face holds allow you to progress further.

Protection 

A standard rack to three inches will have you diving deep in the upper crack, desperately searching for nut placements. That works, but you'll be happier with a 5" or even 6" piece!

There are a couple of ancient pitons on and near this route - don't trust them, please.


Photos of Pigeon Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pigeon Roof (9), No Stranger to the Fist (10), and...
BETA PHOTO: Pigeon Roof (9), No Stranger to the Fist (10), and...
Rock Climbing Photo: The real crux is about here.
The real crux is about here.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex and the Big Bro
Alex and the Big Bro
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben, unloading the #6, perhaps a bit early!
Ben, unloading the #6, perhaps a bit early!
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben, in between the roof and the crux.  You can ac...
Ben, in between the roof and the crux. You can ac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pausing in the offwidth
Pausing in the offwidth
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Zaleski leading Pigeon Roof.
Steve Zaleski leading Pigeon Roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: It is possible to get a couple of good pieces abov...
BETA PHOTO: It is possible to get a couple of good pieces abov...
Rock Climbing Photo: Laura pulls the roof
Laura pulls the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave lookin' for love just below the roof.
Dave lookin' for love just below the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: First route even climbed by this woman (1985).  No...
First route even climbed by this woman (1985). No...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Willis getting up and over the roof on Pigeo...
Jason Willis getting up and over the roof on Pigeo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pigeon Roof
BETA PHOTO: Pigeon Roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Willis on Pigeon Roof, 11/10/02
Jason Willis on Pigeon Roof, 11/10/02

Comments on Pigeon Roof Add Comment
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By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Nov 10, 2002

I climbed this again today and really enjoyed it. The crux might look like it's at the roof, but it's actually above the roof in the awkward crack. The width is just never quite right. Great easier climb with juggy holds to make the roof relatively straightforward.
By Anonymous
Mar 17, 2003

I led this route on 03/15/03. and I must say that although the route has the potential to be fun I found it horrid. The entire upper section from just below the roof to the end stunk like urine and pigeon dung which was all over and impossible to avoid getting on you at least a little. A #5 Camalot would have made the upper crack more enjoyable but I was able to place a small cam deep in the crack by a bunch of bird crud.I will not climb this route again nor recommend it.

Benjamin Sanders

three stars is way too much for this route unless you like bird droppings. I say 0 - 1 star at best

rating held true
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 21, 2003

Benjamin,Did you not expect to find the leavings of pigeons in a climb called Pigeon Roof? I have noticed that the, shall we say, pungent smell of the little beasts tends to be more overpowering in the spring than at any other point during the year. At least none of the feathered guys decided to vacate the crack as you climbed past them. Man, their wings sound like a bomb going off. Not what you'd like to hear when you are sketching out ten feet above your last piece.

There is an old video of the late Derek Hersey soloing a hard route in Eldorado Canyon. As he's jamming the cack a pigeon flies out of the crack, straight into his face! Heresey had the mental strength and wherewithall to avoid falling. Lets face it, climbing (at least the best climbing) take place in nature. As I see it, wildlife, of the smelly avian variety, is a an intrinsic necessary evil. Pigeon Roof, though, that route's a pile.
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 6, 2007

I've had the little turds fly in my face on Double Overhang on Rainy Wed. Tower and on Bailey's Direct on Devil's Tower. Scared me silly both times.
By Tradoholic
Jul 31, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Good route, in a bad way. One good piece in the back of the wide crack at the top if you are skinny enough to get your body in there or got long arms to reach it. A Big Bro might have helped!
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 30, 2011

Bring big gear for the top. I didn't and it's a long run-out.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Oct 7, 2011

If you own a #6 C4 you'll be able to use it here.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 1, 2016

It has been quite a few years since pigeons nested here.

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