BETA PHOTO: It is possible to get a couple of good pieces abov...
This route is located to the left (south) of the large oak tree on the east face of the Minor Mass at the Doorway Rocks. The route is nice and long, about 80 feet, from the base of the rock to the top. Start out by working your way up to the "Saddle" ledge using easy ledges. Once on the saddle climb the crack to the right of the base of the fallen pine tree. Follow the crack up to the roof, and when you reach the roof continue straight up to the wider dihedral crack above.
I climbed this again today and really enjoyed it. The crux might look like it's at the roof, but it's actually above the roof in the awkward crack. The width is just never quite right. Great easier climb with juggy holds to make the roof relatively straightforward.
I led this route on 03/15/03. and I must say that although the route has the potential to be fun I found it horrid. The entire upper section from just below the roof to the end stunk like urine and pigeon dung which was all over and impossible to avoid getting on you at least a little. A #5 Camalot would have made the upper crack more enjoyable but I was able to place a small cam deep in the crack by a bunch of bird crud.I will not climb this route again nor recommend it.
three stars is way too much for this route unless you like bird droppings. I say 0 - 1 star at best
rating held true
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Mar 21, 2003
Benjamin,Did you not expect to find the leavings of pigeons in a climb called Pigeon Roof? I have noticed that the, shall we say, pungent smell of the little beasts tends to be more overpowering in the spring than at any other point during the year. At least none of the feathered guys decided to vacate the crack as you climbed past them. Man, their wings sound like a bomb going off. Not what you'd like to hear when you are sketching out ten feet above your last piece.
There is an old video of the late Derek Hersey soloing a hard route in Eldorado Canyon. As he's jamming the cack a pigeon flies out of the crack, straight into his face! Heresey had the mental strength and wherewithall to avoid falling. Lets face it, climbing (at least the best climbing) take place in nature. As I see it, wildlife, of the smelly avian variety, is a an intrinsic necessary evil. Pigeon Roof, though, that route's a pile.