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Pigeon Paranoia 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Engel
Page Views: 1,722
Submitted By: Glenn Burns on May 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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BETA PHOTO: Pigeon Paranoia


Around the corner from Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag. You'll run into a 8 foot block. Stem your way up between the wall and the block to the first bolt about 15 feet above and meander your way through a number of small holes. Work your way up, then left to the slab and enjoy the slightly run out slabby finish.

  • RCM&W #13, p. 117


left of the large block and about 5 feet right of Piranha.


5 bolts and a two bolt anchor that should be replaced soon. The guide book indicates that the first bolt is missing. It is not, Jeff Engel - FA, removed the original first bolt as it didn't do much to protect the climb.

Photos of Pigeon Paranoia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: DP getting ready to move onto the topout slab.
DP getting ready to move onto the topout slab.
Rock Climbing Photo: Charles pulling over the buldge
Charles pulling over the buldge

Comments on Pigeon Paranoia Add Comment
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By Jonathan Williams
From: Minneapolis
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very dirty, but nonetheless a fairly fun route.

C'mon, this is RED WING. Brush of the holds with your fingers and keep going. ;)
By ferrells
Nov 8, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

this is a pretty good route, and deserves to be climbed more. the moves at the top are different than most at red wing. a little more like a 5.9 alpine slab perhaps, only with nice bolts. anybody care to argue? kind of dirty - but we minnesotans can handle that with the best of 'em. maybe if we can come to consensus grade on this one, it will become a little more popular, and take some of the pressure off of jump start and sleeping bat.
By Kris Gorny
Nov 28, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Agree with ferrells. Very fun and unusual, "exposed", crux. Watch out on the sharp holds below the hueco. I broke some off last time I was on it.
By K Ice
From: Saint Paul, MN
Apr 11, 2008

Great wrist slot in the hole right before the slab. Great climb!
By Dan Roberts
From: Eastern Iowa
Feb 16, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun and a bit puzzling climb on the first go. Second was really just for a good time. Wrist slot is critical and the blind foot placement into the pocket when mounting the slab is a riot. 10c sounds right.
By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Offers three styles of climbing. Lower sections has very normal face climbing, the middle hueco section feels like a boulder problem, and to top it off, a exposed slab with a hidden hold on the top lip.
By Luke Stoltzfus
Jun 4, 2009

It should probably be called "bat paranoia." My friend and I climbed it the other day and we unleashed 2 bats (1 each) when reaching into the hold just before the ascending to the slab. Made the route a little more exciting. Lot's of fun, though.
By Josh Cox
From: Andover, MN
Mar 23, 2010

The top section tricked me, I see now to head left to the slab, but I ended up going straight over the bulge. Seemed harder than .10a that way.
By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Enjoyable route with some fun puzzles to figure out. Dont think its quite .10c. It certainly wasnt harder than Frequent Flatulence which is 10b.
By Chase Roskos
From: Golden, CO
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As of today the route was not too dirty. At least not more than every other route! Quite a nice climb though as many have said, and not too polished... shhhh! Don't let the word get out haha.

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