Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Redgarden - Tower One
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alice in Bucketland 
Apple Strudel 
Art Of Slappiness, The 
Art's Spar 
Blueberry Boodle 
Body Tremors 
Chockstone Chimney 
Consummation Nite 
Dirty Deed 
Electric Aunt Jemima 
Exhibit A 
Exit Stage Left 
Fresh Garbage 
Grand Giraffe 
Italian Arete 
King Cobra, The 
Magic Bus 
Magic Carpet Ride 
Magic Route 
Mellow Fellow 
Mellow Yellow 
Memory Lapse 
Mickey Mouse Nailup 
Much Slater (left variation) 
Neptune's Bible 
One and a Half Hours of Power 
Over the Shoulder Stuff 
Parting Shot 
Phallus In Suck-It-Land 
Pigeon Crack 
Psycho Pigeon 
Rocky Raccoon 
Roll Over Rover 
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) 
Ruper to Grand Giraffe 
Short Arm Inspection. 
Smoke & Mirrors 
Song of the Dodo 
South Face of Tower One 
Super Slab 
Three Old Farts Young at Heart 
To RP or not to Be 
Untouchables, The 
West Arete (of T1), The 
Yellow Fellow 
Yellow Spur, The 
Ytrid Deed, The 

Pigeon Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown to me
Season: any but cold winter
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: Tony B on May 1, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is an interesting historical route, and might be part of a completist experience of Eldo, but both obscure and of minimal merit, if you are looking for a destination climb. The present guidebook refers to this as a 'grungy chimney' albeit there is only perhaps 8' of chimney moves out of the 180' of climbing.

    The climb does encounter a reasonable amount of questionable rock, some real run outs, and a short section of chimney that was indeed inhabited by the route's namesake at one time. (Although not presently and not apparently recently, judging by the decomposition of the doodoo.) It is also a sandbag at 5.8; it is more like 5.9.

    Climb up vertical flakes and cracks on what is more recognizable as a shallow corner system for 100+ feet to reach a 'chimney' with a huge chockstone with a wad of slings (an old fixed rap) below it. Do a few chimney moves to go up into the crack and place a small nut and a green Camalot in a feature on the left wall (long sling). The next few moves are cruxy and otherwise run out on the wad of slings below the friable death-chockstone (just leaning, not socketed) do the sandbag crux to go up and right out of the chimney and up above to good protection and good rock. Continue to the top and belay on a few nuts and a tree.

    Considering that the 'fixed rap/belay' was more or less in the least appealing section of the climb and not that great of gear, I opted to run the climb into a single pitch.


    Left of Vertigo by 70 feet, or for those more familiar, left Mickey Mouse Nailup by about 30' feet. Just right of Lower Psycho Pigeon...


    A standard rack + #4 Camalot might help protect as you exit the chimney (or might be tipped out?). Lots of long slings.

    Comments on Pigeon Crack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Drew Spaulding
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 8, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    A #4 Camalot works fine for protecting the chimney's apex. A beautiful 4" crack leads to the top....