Pigeon Cliff Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||40.42115, -120.67344 View Map Incorrect?
|Page Views: ||1,254|
|Administrators: ||Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Muscrat, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||Paul Bernard on Oct 27, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: 5.9- hands to chains left side of quarry
A great little roadside crag with moderate to difficult sport and trad climbs. Although this is a relatively small crag, there are enough routes of varying difficulty to keep almost any climber busy and pumped out of their minds for a day or two.
Pigeon Cliffs is comprised of columnar basalt, which naturally forms some of the best splitter cracks, from finger tips to offwidths anywhere in the climbing world. Pigeon Cliff does not disappoint in this regard as most of it's routes are also vertical to overhanging, with several roof cracks, dihedrals and technical and aesthetic arêtes. Unfortunately, this particular plug of columnar basalt is rather limited in both it's height and width, but with a few dozen routes from 5.8 to 5.13+, and most being around 90ft tall, there is little to complain about when stopping by for a day or two, taking a quick detour on a road trip or being fortunate enough to have this nice little place for climbing in your own back yard.
Pigeon Cliff can be found on Hwy 36 less than 300yds from the Susanville city boundary sign on the West side of town. When heading into or out of the town of Susanville on Hwy 36, look for a long pullout bordering the cliff edge with several large tree logs and rocks blocking cars from driving off the edge. This pullout is almost directly across the street from North Pine Drives western outlet onto Hwy 36. Google it ;)
Climbing Season For the Northeast California area.
Weather station 0.5 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Pigeon Cliff
first good route on hike down 5.9+ bolt face to ha...
5.11- gnarly gear crack many smallest aliens up t...
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
May 3, 2013
On the road from Susanville to Mt Shasta, just above town.
By T Hocking
Sep 24, 2014
Put up a couple FA's in 1977 with Dane Scott when Joe Fitschen told me about this place. When I climbed there the only other route was The Robbins Route,
FA: Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, Steve Roper 1969.