Pie Plate 5.11a
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Description i rmember the pie plate like holds on this one.this always felt stout. anybody know if it s been led? i imagine it has or soloed
Protection t.r. or ???
By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ Sep 28, 2006
| This is a great route with flowing moves the entire way. .11a/b if you start by jumping up to the obvious jug at the beginning. .12a/b if you actually use the crimps and boulder out the beginning. Classic crimping. Not sure if it has been lead either, but I would like to. |
By Trad Nanny Jun 1, 2009 rating: 5.11a X
| Led it today after flailing on the opening moves for a few goes. A few ball-nutz and some brassies with screamers worked nicely but he opening moves were totally unprotected. The main flake after the crimpy opening moves is VERY hollow and visibly moved when I stuck a piece behind it. Would never hold a fall. I started just to the left "Bucket Brigade" crimped up and through a left traverse to a flat jug, then back up right to the hollow flake and mostly straight up on good crimps. 5.11a R/X Some of this could have been "No Fruit Please" as described in Sven's guidebook. I couldn't figure the distinction between those routes. On the version I did you only trend slightly left for a few moves, any further left and you would be on "Vivisection". |
By richard bechler Jun 3, 2009
| This was free soloed by Rob Drysdale in the 90's |
By Trad Nanny Jun 3, 2009 rating: 5.11a X
| Awesome, probably the only option is solo if you don't own the Ball-Nutz. Richard, do you know the difference between this and "No Fruit Please"? |
By Tony Brengosz Mar 17, 2012 rating: 5.11b
| I would also like to know what the difference between this and No Fruit Please is. I couldn't for the life of me figure a way to climb straight up from the start. |
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