Pie in the Sky
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P1: 10b 110'. Start as for Sons of Liberty, then break right to a parallel set of bolts (mostly next to obvious gear placements) then pull a tricky roof w/ cams in the .3 Camalot range. Continue to a bolted anchor. This pitch is listed in Lewis' guide as an independent route whose name escapes me.
P2: 11b 90'. Step right then up a continuous, exposed crack, mostly fingers to a bolted anchor. The crux is a section of fingerlocks midway. This pitch, which reminded me somewhat of Devils Tower, had a lot of semi-rests.
Descent: rap the route. Heads up: the second rap is a stretcher.
Start as for Sons of Liberty.
A lot of small to medium nuts and cams to blue Camalot.
|Comments on Pie in the Sky
From: Lyons, CO
Jul 5, 2007
There is a direct start variation for the first pitch. Instead of going up left to the bolt on the pillar and traversing back right, you can head up a gear protected trough on the right side of the belay ledge straight up to the second bolt. It is possible to climb this pitch without clipping any bolts, but the placements appear better than they actually are.
A 3.5 camalot is useful for a short ow section after the crux on the second pitch.
Aug 6, 2009
The start described above is probably the most logical.
Can be done as one long pitch with a 60m rope.
The guide includes both pitches in the description of this route (referring to the original description remarks regarding the first pitch).