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Pie in the Sky 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Graham & St. Marie
Season: summer
Page Views: 2,059
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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First cliff

Description 

P1: 10b 110'. Start as for Sons of Liberty, then break right to a parallel set of bolts (mostly next to obvious gear placements) then pull a tricky roof w/ cams in the .3 Camalot range. Continue to a bolted anchor. This pitch is listed in Lewis' guide as an independent route whose name escapes me.

P2: 11b 90'. Step right then up a continuous, exposed crack, mostly fingers to a bolted anchor. The crux is a section of fingerlocks midway. This pitch, which reminded me somewhat of Devils Tower, had a lot of semi-rests.

Descent: rap the route. Heads up: the second rap is a stretcher.

Location 

Start as for Sons of Liberty.

Protection 

A lot of small to medium nuts and cams to blue Camalot.


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By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 5, 2007

There is a direct start variation for the first pitch. Instead of going up left to the bolt on the pillar and traversing back right, you can head up a gear protected trough on the right side of the belay ledge straight up to the second bolt. It is possible to climb this pitch without clipping any bolts, but the placements appear better than they actually are.
A 3.5 camalot is useful for a short ow section after the crux on the second pitch.
By Murf
Aug 6, 2009

The start described above is probably the most logical.
Can be done as one long pitch with a 60m rope.
The guide includes both pitches in the description of this route (referring to the original description remarks regarding the first pitch).
By Todd Graham
Dec 31, 2015

I added the bolts at the very bottom, as with Sons of Liberty, in order to get people smoothly into prime crack climbing above, without being delayed or deterred by having to figure out the gear behind the large loose flake, or use long slings to reduce drag.

The first pitch of Pie after the roof takes a variety of cams, from fingers to hands. The second pitch is fantastic and takes lots of small cams and nuts. Slot a bomber medium-sized nut at the crux about halfway up the second pitch. Save a large cam for the wide part at the end of the second pitch.

I thought this second pitch of Pie was some of the finest crack climbing I have done on the East Side ... not quite as good as Bony Fingers or Positive Vibes, but close ... :) We used to set up a mega TR with 2 ropes and run laps combining the two pitches ... so good!

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