Pictured Rocks 

A lot of this information is just ported over from rc.com. There was nothing for Iowa listed, and I noticed that no current Iowa residences had spoken up in regards to two posts asking info about Iowa climbing.

Nice to get some Iowa climbing up, thanks!

Jon, thanks for putting Iowa on the Mountain Project map. I was going to do so myself but never got around to it. I grew up in Monticello and have many fond memories of tromping around in Pictured Rocks and the surrounding area.

iowaclimbing.com/outdoor.php

this site has a lot of good info and is the reason i never tried putting up an iowa section. thanks for doing it though

edit: pdf guidebooks are no longer available thru that link.

Thanks for the comments, glad to help. Hope to see some more pictures posted as things warm up and we are all getting out.

A few updates:
There is no longer overnight camping allowed at Pictured Rocks or open fires.

This Saturday (September 20th) is the annual Pictured Rocks Adopt-A-Crag cleanup show up for some trail work, a gear raffle and some climbing!

Hey all,

I am looking for a climbing partner at pictured rock or elsewhere.
I climb mostly tr 9-10 at devils lake. I have most of the pro needed to lead just haven't had the chance.Would like a partner to do some extensive tr or lead at the lake or anywhere else.

P-Rocks is just a fun place to climb. Don't be afraid to explore up river once the trail narrows. Over the Counter is a classic anywhere so go find it.

Big thanks to who ever has been rebolting and fixing anchors (ICC?). Really appreciate all the time and effort into keeping this place a fun safe place to climb

Glad to see people are noticing improvements to P.R.. this is going to be an ongoing process for a few months so please be patient. This isn't the ICC doing it but a few of us were elected to bring this area back where it needs to be and safety is at the top. So, more to come out there and thanks for the props. have fun and climb hard and safe.
T

I am going to start leaving steel snap links at the tops of routes at Pictured Rocks. Threading a lower is a time-consuming pain in the ass. Please respect this gear donation by leaving the links in place.

JStark, what do you mean by "snap links"? Are you talking about hardware store stuff?

If you're serious about making lowering stations on the anchors, I really encourage you to use good hardware. Stuff like the CAMP Gym Safe carabiners are great because they have a pin that is placed and removed with a small allen wrench, thus making it really hard for people to take.

I grew up in Monticello so I have great love for the place. Unfortunately, I don't get to climb there much but I agree, the place needs some serious care. I have a lot of experience replacing bad bolts and doing anchor work where I live now and I would love to help out with the work at Pictured Rocks but I keep hearing there is resistance from some climbers and obstacles from the park's governing body to doing some of that work. Some of the bolts and anchors just make me shudder with fear. I would love to see the use of glue-ins at this area. They are such a great bolt for the long term.

Good on you for helping out JStark. I ask about the "snap links" because snap links from the hardware store tend to be inappropriate for climbing. Recently I was looking at snap links at Lowe's and saw they had a working load limit of 250 lbs. Quick links and cold shuts have much higher working load limits so that's why most people have much greater trust in those compared to a snap link. Plus, the snap link gates tend to be really poor and often don't close smoothly, greatly increasing the chances of having a weighted snap link with the gate open.

Those CAMP gym safe carabiners are great and we use them a lot in our area. I think the snap links would likely be taken by people but the CAMP biners are much harder to take. In places like the Owens River Gorge, Mussey hooks are popular and can serve the same purpose. Fixe also makes a nice steel carabiner just like the CAMP and they also have the Draco, which is pretty much useless to a regular climber, thus helping to keep people from taking them.

Troy, good on you guys for replacing the stuff. I really thank you. I was long tempted to start replacing stuff myself but because I don't live there anymore and rarely get back to climb I didn't feel it was my place. I am totally happy to help any time I am back home and have access to free stainless hardware from other rebolting projects that I help with.

Regarding the links, I asked because he mentioned "snap links", which are these , and not "quick links", which are these. I brought it up because recently I've found people using snap links to bail and use at anchors which seems rather poor style considering their cost and the relatively cheap cost of a carabiner when considering what they are rated for. Quick links, on the other hand, I have no issue with and I use well over a hundred a year on the climbs I establish or help maintain.

No problem, i can always use some help doing one of many things out at P.R.. I'm really trying to make the place safer and in all better for everyone, i hope you get out and enjoy it and thanks.

I agree with you, Michael. I hadn't properly researched the breaking strength of snap links. I thought 3/8" stainless would have been stronger. Thanks for the spot! Any leavers I put up will be the CAMP USA Gym Safe carabiners mentioned above.

Anyone have camping suggestions? Can you not tent in the park?

No more camping, is my understanding. Walnut Acres is a private campground in town or Central Park, a county park is pretty close.

New guide books are now available. Follow the link to my website to purchase your copy today.

www.iowaguidebooks.com

They are also being sold at Active Endeavors in Iowa City and Crawdaddy Outdoors in Waverly.

Can anyone provide an update on the camping situation at Pictured Rocks? Leaving tomorrow.

Thanks

camping is not allowed at PR.
" Walnut Acres is a private campground in town (Monticello) or Central Park, a county park is pretty close."
Another option would be camping at Indian Bluffs