This area is now closed by the land owner MORE INFO >>>
Landowners in Lyme have closed the area known as Pickledish Ledges east of the Dartmouth Skiway on the Windslow side to the public. There were reports of climbers pooping in the trail and not respecting the area
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
A variety of cliffs and boulders that still need to be developed. The rock consists of granite that can be sometimes a little crumbly because it has not been climbed much. This is very secluded with nice views of ponds and a small stream.
Every cliff at this area is toprope only as of right now but I would love if they could get bolted and I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one to think that
Getting There
If you can get to Canaan, NH you take Canaan St. Lake Rd. out past the lake go down the long hill when you come to the bottom keep going straight four about 20-30 minutes you will see a pond on your right with a house above it a little ways before the pond you will see a pull off either park there or drive up past the driveway to find two more little pull offs if those are full then drive five or so more minutes down the road to a ski area and park in their parking lot and walk up to the path you can't miss the path it's about 30 ft. left of the driveway
THIS IS A PRIVILEGE TO HAVE THIS CLIMBING AREA OPEN TO US JUST BE KIND AND RESPECTFUL TO IT
BE RESPECTFUL OF THIS LAND
TAKE OUT TRASH THAT YOU TOOK IN, IF YOU SEE ANY TRASH CARRY IT OUT ALSO
TREAT IT LIKE YOU WOULD TREAT ANY CLIMBING AREA
ALSO KEEP IN MIND IF BOTH PARKING SPOTS ARE TAKEN UP AND YOU DON'T WANT TO WALK THE LONG WAY TO THE CLIFFS WHAT EVER YOU DO DON'T PARK IN THE ROAD YOU COULD GET TOWED OR GET A TICKET OR MAKE THE OWNER PISSED AND SHUT US DOWN
THIS IS A SENSITIVE AREA SO IF YOU THINK THERE ARE A LOT OF PEOPLE THERE THAN TRY EARLIER THE NEXT DAY OR SOMETHING JUST WORK ON NOT HAVING HUGE GROUPS AND TONS OF PEOPLE UP THERE FOR SAKE OF KEEPING THE AREA OPEN TO CLIMBERS
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pickledish:
Sit start on a slopey jug with a heel hook reach hard for a semi good crimp role your heel and and bump up to a decent sloper get good feet and go up to some good jugs at the top there is a huge juggy rail get that look for good feet and get the final crimp and rock over the topThere are two cruxes on this one I think.The first one is pulling up and getting the first two holds The second is getting the top out...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
I know Tim has already stressed this but I would also like to add my two cents.
Please respect this wonderful place by leaving no trace, respect the directions given although there is an easier way to get there please follow his directions or access may become an issue. Please do not bolt anything here, for we do not have permission from the land owner and we would like to keep this place open to climbing. Respect this place like it is a crag in you backyard, you wouldn't want people trashing it or breaking your rules.
Myself, Tim Armstrong (Tim Waystrong to The Proj world) and a few other climbing partners have been spending time out here bouldering and lately trad climbing. We are updating the database to the best of out ability and knowing this place has been climbed a lot in the past we don't want to step on anyone's toes.
With that said if anything on the site seems wrong or you have anymore information about the routes we have posted or have anything to add it would be wonderful.
There have been FA's claimed this is due to things that make us believe the line has not been climbed i.e. huge lose blocks that comes off or moves when touched or moss that is taking over the route and other factor which make it seem like routes haven't been climbed, but again if we are wrong please respectfully say something and we will update our posts.
I just heard from a reliable friend that this area had finally been closed to all access in just the past few days. Supposedly they've blocked the old paths and the only way in is to park at the Skiway, hike up the road and bushwack. I haven't confirmed this.
Very sad, as this is a lovely little crag where I did my first outdoor climbing.
Did all Pickledish get closed or just the pickledish wall? I know the Pickledish wall is very close to the owners property and has been touch from time to time. As far as I know though the other walls havent been to restricted?
i was wondering if anyone knew what face has the lonely single bolt about 20 feet off the ground? and was also wondering if anyone has any idea if the Mini cliff where the beaver dam boulder is if it was been climbed or any routes have been placed there
Is the wall with the bolt up the hill from The Beaver Dam Boulder? is it a new bolt or old bolt? I know up the hill there is a old bolted route but the one remaining bolt should not be trust, and around the corner from there, right where the ledge drops off there is a bolt up there but I am not sure what any of the routes on this wall are. Not sure where you would find the info...
If so it might have been climbed before because people have been climbing these walls for about 30 years but it could get "rediscovered if not a true FA"
Patrick have you done any of the bouldering out here most of the route are fantastic, The Helm, Eskimo Roll, and Cornelia Maria are the three best boulder problems, I would suggest doing them!
the bolt im talking abbout is to the left of the trail from the road where theres a crack all the way up the climb.thanks for telling me about the bolt route on the mini cliff.and yes that is the cliff in the photo.it looks killer.i think a friend and I are gonna trad it.thanks matt for all your help man.to everyone else the area is closed but i have had no problems for a month,just be smart and dont be loud up there.
Patrick I still can't picture the climb with the bolt on it, maybe you could snag a picture of it? I agree that mini cliff does look rad, let me know what you guys put up on it, I will look forward to getting on something you put up!
I would suggest not bolting at this place or doing anything but TR, Trad or Boulder here. We don't want to piss anyone off more than they already are if they are.
I second Tims statement, I wouldn't touch anything there in regards to bolts, either removing or adding. Just so we don't run the risk of pissing more people off.
was climbing a month ago and i must say i love this spot.i met what i think was the land owner last year when a few of us were climbing and showed him that we wont be doing any damage up there and he seemed very happy to hear,still trying to get a feel of what cliff we were climbing but the whole area is awsome.theres a nice 40 foot crack (not J crack)with a bolt half way up that looks interesting
is it just the pickledish wall thats closed or is everything kinda out of the question now iv hurd mixed things. id like to check out the spring morning wall but dont want to take the drive down there to be booted out.
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