Picket Fence Rock Climbing
Photo of the Picket Fence and the Mystery Spires f...
The Picket Fence is a small interesting area to the northwest of the Cathedral Spires. This area is seldom visited, and remains mostly undeveloped. Twenty or more unique spires await climbing without the crowds of the Cathedral Spires. However, because of the lack of previous ascents, much of the rock is covered in moss and lichen, and one must be careful of possible loose rock still on the climbs.
Before heading out to the Picket Fence for the first time, get a great view and orient yourself from the base of Station 13 in the Cathedral Spires. Bring a standard rack for most of the climbs, few routes are bolted.
Park at the trailhead for the Cathedral Spires, a few miles past the Needles Eye. Follow the trail #4 towards the Cathedral Spires, and when the small climber's trail heads right at the base, make sure to stay left. Continue up a big hill that works its way behind the Cathedral Spires. The trail then bends to the right. Follow this up a gradual hill until a large flat spot with no vegetation is encountered. This should be right before the trail heads downhill steeply.
This is the base of the Picket Fence. Directions from here are different depending on the destination rock.
Climbing Season For the Custer State Park area.
Weather station 4.9 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Picket Fence
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Picket Fence:
Featured Route For Picket Fence
Scheherazade 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
: Custer State Park
: ... : Gatepost
One of the better trad lines in the Needles. May be only 10+, but a full value one at that! Best done as one pitch but be very mindful of rope management, and be prepared to be on the lead for awhile. Gear and rock are excellent. Though some placement opportunities are a little ways apart, it never becomes R rated. Just exciting!Start in right facing off-width to gain the beautiful zig-zagging crack. When crack starts to disappear towards the top, traverse left then up face to link a couple more...[more] Browse More Classics in SD