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Picket Fence

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Buttonhole, The 
Connspire 
Gatepost 
Incisor 
Mystery Spires 
Pipestem 
Sickle 
Wicked Picket 

Picket Fence Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.8509, -103.5331 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,044
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 28, 2003
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Photo of the Picket Fence and the Mystery Spires f...

Description 

The Picket Fence is a small interesting area to the northwest of the Cathedral Spires. This area is seldom visited, and remains mostly undeveloped. Twenty or more unique spires await climbing without the crowds of the Cathedral Spires. However, because of the lack of previous ascents, much of the rock is covered in moss and lichen, and one must be careful of possible loose rock still on the climbs.

Before heading out to the Picket Fence for the first time, get a great view and orient yourself from the base of Station 13 in the Cathedral Spires. Bring a standard rack for most of the climbs, few routes are bolted.


Getting There 

Park at the trailhead for the Cathedral Spires, a few miles past the Needles Eye. Follow the trail #4 towards the Cathedral Spires, and when the small climber's trail heads right at the base, make sure to stay left. Continue up a big hill that works its way behind the Cathedral Spires. The trail then bends to the right. Follow this up a gradual hill until a large flat spot with no vegetation is encountered. This should be right before the trail heads downhill steeply.

This is the base of the Picket Fence. Directions from here are different depending on the destination rock.

Climbing Season

For the Custer State Park area.

Weather station 4.9 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Picket Fence

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Picket Fence:
Conn Route   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   Sickle
The Buttonhole   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Buttonhole
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Picket Fence

Featured Route For Picket Fence
Rock Climbing Photo: Center of N facing wall.

Veiled Virgin 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Mystery Spires
Two angling cracks in the center of the wall. First pitch is an easier classic. The second is still really good but a little awkward. 1) 5.9+ 80' Work up and left to main crack. Crux is the finger section mid-route. Belay at ledge.2) 5.11 80' Take the right leaning crack from ledge. Gear and climbing is tricky. Belay on big ledge at base of summit block.No bolts anywhere. Bring webbing and rap ring (ours must've blown away)....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Picket Fence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mystery Spires and Picket Fence
Mystery Spires and Picket Fence
Rock Climbing Photo: This map is from Touch the Sky and will help enorm...
This map is from Touch the Sky and will help enorm...
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of Picket Fence and Cathedral Spires
BETA PHOTO: Map of Picket Fence and Cathedral Spires
Rock Climbing Photo: The Conn sense of humor.  Story is Herb climbed ou...
The Conn sense of humor. Story is Herb climbed ou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay.  What to say.
Jay. What to say.
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron you take self-portraits on my camera and you...
Aaron you take self-portraits on my camera and you...
Rock Climbing Photo: Walking out at the end of a great fall day climbin...
Walking out at the end of a great fall day climbin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Picket Fence and Station 13 from Spire 1.
Picket Fence and Station 13 from Spire 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Picket Fence from Spire 2 or 3
Picket Fence from Spire 2 or 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Picket Fence as seen from Spire Four
BETA PHOTO: Picket Fence as seen from Spire Four

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