Pickens Nose is located at the southern end of the Nantahala Mountains within the Nantahala National Forest near the border of North Carolina and Georgia and the town of Otto, NC. It is most easily accessed off US 441 but can also be accessed from the Standing Indian campground.
The climbing history at Pickens Nose may be relatively long, but based on the amount of information available about said climbing it is likely not very storied. It has some easy top rope climbs, some hard sport climbs, and what looks like some bold trad climbs. But overall not a ton of established climbs. I wouldn't classify this as a destination but it can be a fun place to try out with an easy short approach. Most routes are single pitch, but there may be a multi pitch option out there somewhere.
There are three main areas of climbing here; Cameron's Wall, the "Top Rope" Wall and the Nose. All three are near the end of the approach trail. If you keep walking until the trail ends you will be on top of Pickens Nose proper. Turn around and walk back a little if you intended to find the other walls or access the bottom of the Nose. Directions to each area are on the area pages.
There is also a fairly large boulder on the left about 2/3 of the way down the approach trail. It's currently covered in plant growth but could have a few decent problems on it if someone was inspired to clean it up.
I have been unable to find too much documentation about the established climbs here. If anyone has any actual route names, ratings, FA's etc, about anything I've posted please let me know and I'll update things.
From US 441: Look for the forest service sign for the Coweeta Hydrologic Laboratory on the west side of the road approximately one mile south of Otto, NC. Turn onto Coweeta Lab Road and follow it about 3 miles coming to a forest service sign for Ball Creek Road - FS 83. Climb for 5 miles on unpaved FS-83 to reach the trailhead. The road forks once on the way up, be sure to stay on FS-83 by bearing to the right and uphill until the roads flattens out.
From NC 64: Take the Wallace Gap Road toward the Standing Indian Campground. Pass the campground on Forest Service Road 67, passing first the campground entrance (where the road changes from hardtop to gravel) and beyond the Backcountry Information Center (a glorified bulletin board). Drive on this well maintained gravel road for about six miles until you come to a fork with a sign indicating "Albert Mountain" on the left and "Coweeta" on the right. 67 is on the left and the right turn is Forest Service Road 83. Drive until you see a gate. If the gate is closed, park there and continue on foot for about fifty feet to the Pickens Nose Trail which will be on your right.
Both sides of the road access can be closed in the winter time so plan accordingly
Look for the brown Pickens Nose trail sign and the parking area that can accommodate several cars. The trail is about 0.7 mi and is only slightly uphill so it makes for an easy approach. The east side of the trail is on Coweeta Lab property and the west side of the trail is on National Forest property. Depending on the time of year you go, you may find hunters around running dogs with radio collars.
Camping is allowed on National Forest land (i.e. the west side of the trail). There is an established car camping spot adjacent to the parking lot and there is an established back country site about half way down the approach trail on the west side. There is no water source here, so bring your water.
On the opposite side of the Top Rope Wall is an obvious chimney that goes up into what appears to be a Rhododendron forest. Not to fear there is a trail from the top back to where the gully is.Head up the right angling chimney and get your friction on. The slight amount of moss/lichen growing on the side your feet use makes for some less then positive feeling footwork. Top out and use a couple of Rhodo's as an anchor for your 2nd. The way the top out is doesn't really lend itself for setting up ...[more]Browse More Classics in NC
The access roads from both sides (FS-67 and FS-83) are closed until April 1st according to the forest service website. I don't know if this link will always work, so Google Nantahala Ranger District Seasonal Road Closures. I don't know for sure where the gates are.