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Sep 17, 2013
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
So there is lot's of information on the interweb about how to get to Picken's Nose. And it's easy enough to find the climbs with a bit of exploring. But in the spirit of MP I thought it would be nice to try and post names/grades to some of the routes out there. Since it's been climbed for many years I was hoping that some of the folks on MP could enlighten me with some route info. I have numbered the routes on the pictures for your convenience.


Cameron's Wall  1. Cameo 2. Cadence 3. Camaraderie
Cameron's Wall

1. Cameo
2. Cadence
3. Camaraderie


This is the first overlook on the right and according to the Flatliners site is Cameron's Wall. Grades/FA unknown


Bolted line to the left of Cameron's Wall
Bolted line to the left of Cameron's Wall


This is a bolted line on the face left of Cameron's Wall


Left most climb on the "TR Wall"
Left most climb on the "TR Wall"


Right three climbs on the "TR Wall"
Right three climbs on the "TR Wall"


The above two pictures are just east of the Nose and have bolted anchors on top of each climb. I'm calling this the "TR Wall" until someone gives me a name. Also there is a redirect bolt that would seem to indicate a climb on the south side (no picture)


The chimney west of the "TR Wall"
The chimney west of the "TR Wall"


The chimney east of the "TR Wall"

I tried to take some pictures of the harder climbs on the Nose but none of the pictures turned out very well. So if you know anything about those let me know.
Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Joined Oct 5, 2009
872 points
Nov 7, 2013
I put up one route there called "Pickens Plum", a one bolt route up a overhanging wall. Andrew Mcdowell put up some hard routes there recently. The routes you posted I have no info on but would love to find out myself. I am working on a guide book am and thinking of putting Pickens Nose in it. My name is Shannon Stegg, hope to hear back from you. shannon stegg
Joined Jan 1, 2013
8 points
Nov 7, 2013
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
Hey Shannon. I've discussed it some with Jeff Cort. He was a fountain of information about all the routes out at Pickens but didn't know any of the names. Do you think Andrew has any info? Is he on MP?

I've thought about asking MC but I have no way of contacting him.
Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Joined Oct 5, 2009
872 points
Nov 17, 2013
Andrew is a great source! He did some routes on a dirty North facing wall there, and might even have a standing project that needs to be sent, if he has not finished it already. shannon stegg
Joined Jan 1, 2013
8 points
Nov 19, 2013
Which way again?
What areas is the guidebook covering, Shannon? Is this one meant to replace/supplement the Shull/Lambert and Kelley guides? Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Nov 20, 2013
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
I would assume that Shannon's guide wouldn't overlap whatsoever with existing guidebooks. Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Joined Oct 5, 2009
872 points
Nov 27, 2013
Years ago, Bob Rotert gave me his hand typed guide book to Cashiers Valley. I was a newbie, but that did not matter to him, sharing his passion for climbing was all that mattered. I would like to return that freindly deed by updating it. Over the last forty years I have seen more than one great route earased or neutered and the history changed. shannon stegg
Joined Jan 1, 2013
8 points
Nov 30, 2013
Almost everything in Cashiers besides Laurel, Big Green and Whitesides is on private land and off limits. A guidebook for any of the other stuff would be greatly advised against. Whipper
From Douglasville, GA
Joined May 14, 2012
4 points
Dec 2, 2013
East Buttress Direct, SEWS, WA Pass.
Which cliffs do you speak of that are on private land? Jeff Mekolites
From HOTlanta, GA
Joined Jan 4, 2007
4,654 points
Dec 2, 2013
Timber Ridge, Sagee, PantherTail, Cow Rock, most of Fodderstack, Wildcat (just outside the boundaries of the National Forest) Black Rock Mountain, Rock Mountain, Old Bald. Whipper
From Douglasville, GA
Joined May 14, 2012
4 points
Dec 2, 2013
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
I think the thread about "secret" cliffs in NC is this one:

mountainproject.com/v/black-fo...

I'm looking for route info about Pickens Nose on federal land.
Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Joined Oct 5, 2009
872 points
Dec 2, 2013
Thanks, Mark. It will be nice to know a bit more about this area. I've been there once and in addition to the routes you've documented, I recall seeing a longer, but much dirtier route further north on the same face. Scott Phil
From NC
Joined May 30, 2010
17 points
Dec 5, 2013
I like that the only one who spells my name correct is Shannon and John Strand! PS. Who is the girl with the boobies? PSS. We aren't supposed to be climbing at Sage, Wildcat, Cow Rock or Old Baldy?, next someone's gonna tell me we cant climb on Table Rock in South Carolina? courthouse
Joined Oct 22, 2013
150 points
Dec 5, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
Really depends on what part of table rock your talking about ;) rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
253 points
Dec 24, 2013
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
courthouse wrote:
I like that the only one who spells my name correct is Shannon and John Strand


I had it wrong in my phone. I think I may have it now
Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Joined Oct 5, 2009
872 points
Dec 25, 2013
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
Since I'm sitting around the house sick, I went ahead and made a Pickens Nose area page with what I know. Check it out and let me know if there's something that needs changing or something I can do to improve it. Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Joined Oct 5, 2009
872 points
Dec 30, 2013
check out rock house knob. it's worth the effort. jeep gaskin
Joined Aug 10, 2010
17 points
Jan 6, 2014
I think there are 1-2 routes left of #5 (on the top rope wall) They are much harder than the routes to the right. courthouse
Joined Oct 22, 2013
150 points
Jan 6, 2014
Also, I cleaned the slab right of #8 (years ago) I believe there are 2 variations (both; easy - moderate). This is more of a "high boulder problem" than a climb. courthouse
Joined Oct 22, 2013
150 points
Jan 6, 2014
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
Next time I go out there I want to explore those lines left (and around the corner) of #5 and see what they're like. There's one bolt on the top that I assume the intent is for an anchor directional on these other lines. The face right of #8 is cleanish now, its just that the top out involves diving through the rhodos. Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Joined Oct 5, 2009
872 points


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