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Iron Curtain Wall
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Pick Pocket 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Vicki Smoot, Brian Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 1,614
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 29, 2001

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not all the holds are good, you gotta trust your f...


This climb tends to be more smearing and less edging than a quartzite climber is used to, due to the --correct me if I'm wrong-- less metamorphosed nature of the quartzite. It is an enjoyable climb, albeit a little short. It's been a few years since I have climbed it, but the pitons looked good.


This has a 2-bolt anchor. It consists of 2 bolts and 2 pitons.

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By Lee Gitlin
Jul 1, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

The route starts off with an intimidating run at the first bolt (at least 12 feet off the deck). Be sure to clip the new bolt and not its spun-out, 1/4 inch little brother immediately next to it. I'm not 100% confident in the second piton, a knife blade that looks old enough to come out of Sir Edmund Hillary's rucksack. You may want to back it up with a piece of gear. All in all, a fun (but short) route that requires some interesting movement and traversing. Worth the effort.
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 2, 2004

Gear Alert
Both hangers at the anchors are spinning.
By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jun 2, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pins were fine, last bolt was a spinner, as were both rusted anchor bolts. For some reason I had more trouble on this climb than any other one at the wall.
By Matthew R Wolbach
From: Park City, UT
Aug 24, 2011

Just climbed Pick Pocket today and both top anchors are rusted and they are spinners, all of the others bolts on the rout are good.
By Annie Naylor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 31, 2013

Both anchors at the top are rusted and spinning. Pitons are rusted but seem solid. Two bolts, three pitons- the first erroneous piton is right next to a bolt. My belayer lowered me very slowly and carefully once I saw the super sketchy condition the anchors were in.

We ended up climbing Mutation, the 5.9 to the right, then lowering and traversing left across the gully to grab the gear from this climb since no one wanted to go up it once we realized the condition of the anchors. I wouldn't climb this again without setting up my own anchor.
By Gub
Jun 15, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A bit tough for a 5.8, but still in the 5.8 difficulty range.

The anchors definitely seem to be rusting out, use caution.
By Grant Burton
From: Holladay, UT
Jul 7, 2015

This is my favorite route for the grade at Iron Curtain. Love the pins, especially how much people get sketched out by them and the anchors. How many pitons do you find that don't have a little rust on em? the anchors were solid as well as the pins.
By Scott Morris
From: Bountiful
Jul 31, 2015

I really enjoyed the climbing on this one, and the pitons were cool and seemed solid enough. But that anchor was one of the worst I've seen. Both bolts were loose....pull down and not out!
By Brennan Crellin
From: Draper, UT
Apr 12, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This anchor is in terrible condition. I'll try to get to replacing this in May-June, but if someone gets to it before then, great!

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