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10b or not 10b 
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Picante 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Long, Darrell Hensel, Kevin Powell, Dave Wonderly, 1987
Page Views: 491
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 10, 2008
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Drilling the final bolt on the first ascent. Clim...

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Description 

Extremely good rock with exhilarating small edge climbing in sections. Although not seriously runout, spicy moves will be found a ways out from the bolts.

Make scary 10c moves up to the first bolt. Do a few 11b moves above this bolt and then clip a few more bolts. From the fifth bolt step back down to about the level of the fourth bolt, move right about 10', and then follow a series of small sharp edges on technical climbing (12a) to a scary standup (11b) that obtains the final bolt stance. From here, 11a climbing tends up and right to the top of Miscalculation.


Location 

First route left of Miscalculation.


Protection 

Bolts. It is possible to belay at the double bolts at the top of Miscalculation. However, doing so makes it a little scary for the person following. It is probably best to continue up on easy ground and belay at the obvious tree (slings, plus maybe some cams to 2").



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