|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Billy Wesbay and Michael Covington, 1975|
|Submitted By:||paco on Mar 2, 2002|
|Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Picadilly Circus||Add Comment|
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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 6, 2005
From: Pinewood Springs
Jun 26, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
P1. ~100m of easy slab climbing, at the top of the slab traverse left about 3m below wall until you reach the right-facing corner and crack above.
P2. 7m up the crack 5.7/8, then step left to another crack w/ 5.9 move above. Follow crack to left under slab, then up 6 or 7m and traverse back right to alcove belay. 60m.
P3. 5.10 climbing begins once you're under the roof and traversing left to the notch and cracks in roof. Good pro but can be difficult to place. A green Camalot at end of traverse. Once you get gear in crack you can take a break, climbing above is good clean finger crack. 50m.
Camalots: double (yellow, red, green); 14 shoulder length QDs; many finger size cams. Watch for gear cluster F at lip of roof.
At the top of P3, since I almost pulled this death rock onto myself, we decided to launch it and save someone's life.