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Phrenology 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Luke Laeser and Walt Wehner
Page Views: 501
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jun 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

You probably didn't come to the Dungeon to climb slabs but this chossy dirty climb might be worth doing once.

Start up the slab left of Meltdown, being careful not to pull anything off or peel off from the lichen on the easy bottom section. At the 4th bolt there is a nice ledge to rest on, to get ready for the crux.

Pull the crux moves, being aware of the ankle breaking fall potential back onto the ledge, and head up more sustained ground to the 6th bolt. Here grab the crack and make the funnest easiest moves to the anchor.

Location 

Far left side of the Main wall. Turn the corner past Meltdown, and hike 10 feet up the loose hill.

Protection 

6 Bolts to Anchors


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By Laeserguns
Jul 24, 2008

I bolted this one with Walt Wehner. You will enjoy the angle stock homemade hangers that Jon Butler, Mike Lyons, Jason Cox and I made in high school. Sorry I was too cheap to put real gear on this one.... It required lots of cleaning but I seem to remember it was a pretty fun route.
By Wa3lt
Jan 1, 2009

Not sure what Luke and I were thinking with this one. It is, however, not our worst route - that honor goes to Texas Whine, at El Rito, which has the same crappy homemade hangers, plus crater potential from everywhere on the route, thanks to the huge slab behind it.