Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 
Brave Little Toaster S 
Castle Greyskull 
Catapult, The S 
Couch Warrior S 
Death Drives a Stick S 
Dragon's Lair S 
Evil Alchemist S 
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 
Gangland S 
Loose Cannon S 
Meltdown S 
Moat Jump S 
Moat Pump S 
Phrenology S 
Rogue Warrior S 
Siege Warfare S 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Luke Laeser and Walt Wehner
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jun 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


You probably didn't come to the Dungeon to climb slabs but this chossy dirty climb might be worth doing once.

Start up the slab left of Meltdown, being careful not to pull anything off or peel off from the lichen on the easy bottom section. At the 4th bolt there is a nice ledge to rest on, to get ready for the crux.

Pull the crux moves, being aware of the ankle breaking fall potential back onto the ledge, and head up more sustained ground to the 6th bolt. Here grab the crack and make the funnest easiest moves to the anchor.


Far left side of the Main wall. Turn the corner past Meltdown, and hike 10 feet up the loose hill.


6 Bolts to Anchors

Comments on Phrenology Add Comment
Show which comments
By Laeserguns
Jul 24, 2008

I bolted this one with Walt Wehner. You will enjoy the angle stock homemade hangers that Jon Butler, Mike Lyons, Jason Cox and I made in high school. Sorry I was too cheap to put real gear on this one.... It required lots of cleaning but I seem to remember it was a pretty fun route.
By Wa3lt
Jan 1, 2009

Not sure what Luke and I were thinking with this one. It is, however, not our worst route - that honor goes to Texas Whine, at El Rito, which has the same crappy homemade hangers, plus crater potential from everywhere on the route, thanks to the huge slab behind it.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!