Fun face climbing capped by a very difficult mantle.
This route is immediately right of the second pitch of GM. From the anchors, walk right several feet on a ledge to a wide crack. Climbing this leads to an undercling. Heading rightward leads to the real business, face climbing on chickenheads, jutting intrusive stones, and tiny edges. Climb mostly straight up until you reach a sloping, narrow ledge, then hand-traverse right to the anchors.
The final mantle to the chains is rumored to be impossible for humans.
To the right of GM's second pitch.
A couple of pieces of trad gear would protect the very bottom moves, after that pro is 3 bolts.
Can be easily toproped after climbing GM.
Jul 1, 2008
If your leading this take along some small stoppers or maybe small cams to protect the mantel. I had a harder time gaining the rail then pulling the mantel.
Jul 3, 2008
The mantel at the top is .11a (and very doable); if you fail to bring stoppers/small cams to protect it, you may end up grabbing the chains (as I did). Be aware that you have to FULLY mantel to reach the chains (unless you are tall). The bolts on the route are very rusty; it may be desirable to replace them at this point.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 29, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
I TRed this route today after climbing HOTC, and thought it was pretty difficult in the grade. I made two separate attempts at the mantel and finally pulled it off, but was left standing to the left of the anchor, face against the rock. Great route, though, with sustained knob climbing all the way to the sloping ledge below the anchor.
|By Eric Fjellanger|
Jun 29, 2009
I have observed that this route is now protected by shiny new bolts, placed right next to the partially-removed old mank.
|By Douglas T|
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
If you think knees are aid, the last move will be really hard. I clipped the final anchors with my face in the rock my knees on the ledge, and my feet out in space. Have some small nuts to protect the last move, #2 to protect the start and QD's in between. Frequently practiced on TR from the Heart of the Country anchor.
|By Ryan Hoover|
Aug 23, 2013
Anyone know what the top half of this pitch goes free at above the anchor chains? Fought my way through the stem box (TR, felt .11+?), but the first moves off the anchor felt extra burly. Ended up just starting this by standing on the anchor bolts, after that the climbing was great!
Cramer gives it 5.10 C1/2.