Phone Calls from the Dead
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Fun face climbing capped by a very difficult mantle.
This route is immediately right of the second pitch of GM. From the anchors, walk right several feet on a ledge to a wide crack. Climbing this leads to an undercling. Heading rightward leads to the real business, face climbing on chickenheads, jutting intrusive stones, and tiny edges. Climb mostly straight up until you reach a sloping, narrow ledge, then hand-traverse right to the anchors.
The final mantle to the chains is rumored to be impossible for humans.
To the right of GM's second pitch.
A couple of pieces of trad gear would protect the very bottom moves, after that pro is 3 bolts.
Can be easily toproped after climbing GM.
|Comments on Phone Calls from the Dead
Jul 1, 2008
If your leading this take along some small stoppers or maybe small cams to protect the mantel. I had a harder time gaining the rail then pulling the mantel.
Jul 3, 2008
The mantel at the top is .11a (and very doable); if you fail to bring stoppers/small cams to protect it, you may end up grabbing the chains (as I did). Be aware that you have to FULLY mantel to reach the chains (unless you are tall). The bolts on the route are very rusty; it may be desirable to replace them at this point.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jul 29, 2008
I TRed this route today after climbing HOTC, and thought it was pretty difficult in the grade. I made two separate attempts at the mantel and finally pulled it off, but was left standing to the left of the anchor, face against the rock. Great route, though, with sustained knob climbing all the way to the sloping ledge below the anchor.
|By Eric Fjellanger|
Jun 29, 2009
I have observed that this route is now protected by shiny new bolts, placed right next to the partially-removed old mank.