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 ADVANCED
a. The Uberfall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 T 
Apoplexy T 
BB Route T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Boston T,TR 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
CC Route T 
Charie TR 
Clover T 
Coronary T,TR 
Crimson Corner T 
Das Wiggles T 
DD Route T 
Dirty Chimney T 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Eyesore T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 
Flake, The T,TR 
Handy Andy T 
Harvard T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 
Junior T,TR 
Katzenjammer T 
Ken's Crack T 
Keyhole T 
Laurel T 
Low Exposure T 
Lower Eaves T 
Mitty Mouse  T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Phoebe T,TR 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Rhododendron T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Shitty Mitty T,TR 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Squiggles T 
Squiggles Direct T,TR 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie A T 
Trapped Like a Rat T 
Uberfall Descent T 
Walter Mitty T 
Yale T 
Unsorted Routes:

Phoebe 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dick Williams (1963)
Page Views: 1,090
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Sep 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Ann cruises up Phoebe on top rope

Description 

Steep face climbing with lots of thin crimps. Fairly forgettable.


Location 

Located directly under the top of Ken's Crack, making it a quick and easy TR.


Protection 

Slightly runout. A few small nuts and tiny cams, easier to protect at the bottom.



Comments on Phoebe Add Comment
Show which comments
By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

I didn't forget this. It's a very hard, tricky little stretch. Bizarre footwork at crux--definitely hard 10. It had a single old bolt, and you'd deck if you fell on the 5.9 above crux. Top rope all the way.
Charie, face immediately right of Boston, is an excellent toprope as well. Stiff 5.9.

By lostlazy
Nov 11, 2009

I don't know when, but as of 11/6/09, the old 1/4" bolt has been replaced with a new standard bolt. After leading this I feel that the gear is strenuous to place, but there, definitely not R anymore.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Aug 6, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

I couldn't disagree with Nick more. "Phoebe" is a great, intricate face route. Great horizontals and tricky footwork make "Phoebe" very memorable and worth doing, if you're finished with "Boston" or "Ken's Crack." Glad to know that it's a 5.10+

By Jeffrey Dunn
Administrator
May 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

Not 10+. It's PG if you think that the small gear at the final overlap will hold. I thought it would on lead, and didn't after bounce testing on the way down. 5.10b 5.9R to me.