Phobos/Deimos Cliff Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Phobos/Diemos Cliff
This warm, south-facing cliff band is home to a few steep, classic crack climbs. These include Phobos
(5.9+), Deimos (5.9+), Blues Riff
(5.11b/c) and Goldfinger
The cliff sits just east of Tenaya Lake and the huge Moutaineer's/Harlequin Dome complex. It is directly across from Pywiak Dome. Parking can be found directly below the dome at a small pulloff, or in the main Tenaya Lake parking lot.
The approach up to the cliff is a grunt. The trail is well-marked however. Allow 45 minutes.
Weather station 9.3 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Phobos/Deimos Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Phobos/Deimos Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Phobos/Deimos Cliff:
Deimos 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Phobos 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 275'
Blues Riff 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Goldfinger 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Featured Route For Phobos/Deimos Cliff
Blues Riff 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a CA
: Yosemite National Park
: ... : Phobos/Deimos Cliff
Tuolumne is not a destination for flawless crack climbs, but there are a few notable exceptions, Blues Riff being one of them. This pitch would be classic no matter where it would be. Originally rated 5.11d, it has since been down-rated to as low as 5.11b, but although the crux is brief, it is probably solid 5.11. Most climb only through the second pitch and then rap with double ropes. P1: Begin about 100' right of the obvious crack system of Phobos at a section of friable rock protected by ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Through the trees on the approach
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Aug 10, 2015
Cordelette on the top rappel station is very worn (sheath cut through by bolts) so I added a piece of sterling power cord to the mix. I didn't have a knife, so wasn't able to cut down the old cord and re-knot mine. Feel free to cut away the old stuff/retro mine; even better if you can equip the station with mallions. Added some webbing to the bottom rappel station as well, so the entire descent should be in good condition.
Bottom rappel is a slung horn directly below the top rappel at ~63 meters. I made it with less than a meter to spare after rope stretch. Alternative is swinging left to Blues Riff's anchor (assuming nobody is on route).