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BETA PHOTO: The Phobos crack in its entirety. A great full le...
Phobos is the sustained, three pitch climb on the left end of the cliff. It is reported to be the better quality of the two climbs for which the wall is named.
P1: Climb up a crack to a left-facing corner and roof system. Pull through the roof with strenuous stems and jams -- there's usually fixed gear here -- and continue up to an uncomfortable belay in the crack system. 5.9+
P2: Climb the steep, twin cracks to another belay. 5.9
P3: Continue straight up off the belay in a wide crack/chimney system past some hollow sounding features to a slab. It is possible to escape right on this slab via run out climbing, but nicer to continue straight up through the headwall. 5.9
Standard rack plus a 4"-6" piece.
BETA PHOTO: The view up at the great middle section of Phobos ...
BETA PHOTO: Phobos
Start of the first pitch
a party on the second pitch
BETA PHOTO: Phobos - Moon of Mars taken by MRO. (c) JPL
BETA PHOTO: Phobos
Dan following P2 of Phobos.
Photo: Corey Gargano
Bryan Hall starting up Pitch 2 of Phobos
|By Darshan Ahluwalia|
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 6, 2007
The first two pitches can be done--and should be done--in one two hundred foot rope stretcher. With a 60m rope, you will just barely make it to the ledge. To climb it in one pitch, be sure to use long runners through the roof--or better, back clean.
This is the way I did this climb the first time. It was great! It makes for a nice long adventure pitch where you can really zone out and climb for (almost) ever.
|By Greg DeMatteo|
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 7, 2008
I don't recall this being that sandbagged.
|By vanishing spy|
Jul 21, 2009
A great route, but the first pitch is strenuous, steep and tricky for 5.9, I'd call it 5.10. Maybe it's a bit height dependent. While it's technically possibly to do both pitch 1,2 in one pitch you would need lots of gear and have to manage the drag over the roof. The pitch 2 handcracks take #2 camalots almost anywhere so bring 3 or more, #3s fit in fewer spots. I Went up with two #1,#2, #3s and got flamed bumping the #2s but also plugged a 1, 3. After the cracks merge the climbing eases and more gear options open up.
Also, to have a comfortable belay after pitch one, bring a #4 and 5. Sadly I had to take a hanging belay off the bail slings further down and it sucked.
From: Oakland, Ca
Jul 29, 2010
9+ is legit. The climbing is very three dimensional- so if you are keeping an eye out for features there's no 5.10 climbing. 9+ is often harder than 10 as most know, however.
From: Golden, CO
Jul 24, 2011
SuperTopo warns of crowds. We climbed this on Saturday and had the route to ourselves all day.
I think linking P1 and P2 is a bad idea.
Use a #4 and #5 for a comfy anchor on the 1st pitch.
P1 felt 5.9+. The moves are strenuous, but there are bomber hand jams and bomber cam placements for the entire pitch.
P2 was amazing 5.9 twin hand cracks with excellent exposure.
P3: I was happy to have the #4 and #5 on this pitch. The offwidth can be avoided with face climbing.
|By Greg Barnes|
Oct 1, 2011
Warning: there is a bolted anchor on the top of the cliff about 50' right of the finish of Blues Riff and Phobos. This anchor has NO ANCHORS BELOW within reach of two 60m ropes - do NOT use!
Thanks to Katrina Managan and partners for the warning!
|By Sara Ann|
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Sep 10, 2012
You can back up a belay off the hollow flake bail slings atop P1 with a #2, but the more legit belay is from the P2 crack, with a #4 and #5.