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 ADVANCED
Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ABM TR 
Bagatelle T,TR 
Beginner's Delight T,TR 
Beginners Demise TR 
Bloody Mary T 
Chicken Delight/Chicken Tonight T,TR 
Couch of Pain T,TR 
Cracking Up T,TR 
Death & Disfiguration T 
Death and Transfiguration T,TR 
Degrade Your Sister T,TR 
Epiphany T 
Fakir, The T,TR 
Full Moon Over Baraboo T,TR 
Hero's Fright Variation TR 
Heroes Fright T,TR 
Immaculate Conception TR 
October First T,TR 
Phlogiston T,TR 
Pretzel, The T,TR 
Prime Rib T,TR 
Sofa-Isticated-Lady T,TR 
Wild Horses TR 

Phlogiston 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Pete Cleveland
Page Views: 1,576
Submitted By: David A Groth on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Dave Groth on lead

Description 

Another hard DL eliminate, Good climbing just left of Bagatelle. Do the boulder problem between Bagatelle & the arete, then climb to the Bagatelle rest continuing up straight to finish left of Bagatelle

Location 

Pseudo Hawks nest

Protection 

Bad gear, small RPs some blades. Best done as a TR.


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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 13, 2007

Yo Dave,Thats a killer photo of you leading Phlogiston! Awesome send!
When was that?Is this the hardest dl trad line that has been led?
Peace and Fuk-nes Steve S.
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Apr 26, 2007

Steve
I never did get the route clean! I fell about 3 feet from the top, I got in a good stopper & peeled. It is a long and good story.

During the assent a very verbal and almost violent fight broke out. An unnamed Madison climbing started ranting about ethics. Rich Bechler had to remove him from the base of the route. Meanwhile I was off the rest stance on really shitty gear trying to concentrate with all this shit going on at the base of the route. As soon as I got in some good gear I just lost it and fell.
I never when back up on lead. I realized the pinch block I put the wires and copper head in is pretty hollow and did not want to risk it.

that's my story! The short version of coarse.

I thought the photo was worth putting up! There are way to many TR photos on MP.
Dave Groth
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 29, 2007

YO Dave G, That is a good story.Just what were you guys doing to arouse the ire of our young ethics policepunter from madison.
Using chalk,sticky rubber,camming devices,head pointing,or heaven forbid...drugs and alchol??? OR did one of you clowns steal his girl friend? OR were you clowns just climbing better then the poor punter?
And pray tell what was the lads name?
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
May 5, 2007

The fight started over the controversial use pins on DL leads. I drove 2 blades in the horizontal at the rest. Same gear as bagatelle.
As far as his name I think I will let sleeping dogs lay.

I think the real RAD lead yet to be done is cheap thrills!
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 6, 2007

Dave G, I am pretty sure our young pull-down artist Jason H. recently led CHEAP THRILLS....as well as Peyote Blues.
What about N.W. Face of Ceasarian Tower as a rad lead???
peace and fuk-nes
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Aug 19, 2010

FA in 1977?
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Aug 20, 2010

According to this stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hard.h... the FA was in 1977, they have the grade off a bit though :)
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 20, 2010

Was it down graded because of the introduction of sticky-er shoe rubber and better shoe design?