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Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bagatelle T,TR 
Beginner's Delight T,TR 
Beginners Demise TR 
Bloody Mary T 
Chicken Delight/Chicken Tonight T,TR 
Couch of Pain T,TR 
Cracking Up T,TR 
Death & Disfiguration T 
Death and Transfiguration T,TR 
Degrade Your Sister T,TR 
Epiphany T 
Fakir, The T,TR 
Full Moon Over Baraboo T,TR 
Hero's Fright Variation TR 
Heroes Fright T,TR 
Immaculate Conception TR 
October First T,TR 
Phlogiston T,TR 
Pretzel, The T,TR 
Prime Rib T,TR 
Sofa-Isticated-Lady T,TR 
Wild Horses TR 


YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Pete Cleveland
Page Views: 1,981
Submitted By: David A Groth on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Dave Groth on lead


Climb thin holds straight up the blank face between "Bagatelle" and "Beginner's Demise" to the "Bagatelle" rest at the large sidepull. From here, punch it straight up to a mini roof. Surmount this and navigate the crack above, avoiding the holds to the right on "Bagatelle." Despite the eliminated holds at the end, this is an excellent route.


Pseudo Hawks nest


An assortment of small wires.

Comments on Phlogiston Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2015
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 13, 2007

Yo Dave,Thats a killer photo of you leading Phlogiston! Awesome send!
When was that?Is this the hardest dl trad line that has been led?
Peace and Fuk-nes Steve S.
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Apr 26, 2007

I never did get the route clean! I fell about 3 feet from the top, I got in a good stopper & peeled. It is a long and good story.

During the assent a very verbal and almost violent fight broke out. An unnamed Madison climber started ranting about ethics. Rich Bechler had to remove him from the base of the route. Meanwhile I was off the rest stance on really shitty gear trying to concentrate with all this shit going on at the base of the route. As soon as I got in some good gear I just lost it and fell.
I never when back up on lead. I realized the pinch block I put the wires and copper head in is pretty hollow and did not want to risk it.

That's my story! The short version of course.

I thought the photo was worth putting up! There are way to many TR photos on MP.
Dave Groth
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 29, 2007

YO Dave G, That is a good story.Just what were you guys doing to arouse the ire of our young ethics policepunter from madison.
Using chalk,sticky rubber,camming devices,head pointing,or heaven forbid...drugs and alchol??? OR did one of you clowns steal his girl friend? OR were you clowns just climbing better then the poor punter?
And pray tell what was the lads name?
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
May 5, 2007

The fight started over the controversial use pins on DL leads. I drove 2 blades in the horizontal at the rest. Same gear as Bagatelle.
As far as his name I think I will let sleeping dogs lay.

I think the real RAD lead yet to be done is cheap thrills!
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 6, 2007

Dave G, I am pretty sure our young pull-down artist Jason H. recently led CHEAP well as Peyote Blues.
What about N.W. Face of Ceasarian Tower as a rad lead???
peace and fuk-nes
By Adam Stackhouse
Aug 19, 2010

FA in 1977?
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Aug 20, 2010

According to this the FA was in 1977, they have the grade off a bit though :)
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Aug 20, 2010

Was it down graded because of the introduction of sticky-er shoe rubber and better shoe design?
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Oct 19, 2015

Peter Bonamici lead this yesterday. Right after pulling the rope after his lead of Bagatelle. Amazing to see. I think I was way more nervous than he was. Congrats.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Oct 19, 2015

By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Oct 19, 2015

Awe inspiring... as good and great as it gets at DLSTP...
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Oct 19, 2015

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 19, 2015

Yes Peter! A super strong, V-hard boulderer putting his skills to the sharp-end, I love it!
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 19, 2015

Sweet! Strong work!
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 20, 2015

Wow, This is awesome news. Way to send a very tricky DL test piece. What the heck is the gear like? Would have like to have seen this lead. Any pics? Proud lead Dude. Peace and f-nes Steve S.
By madisonchoss
Oct 20, 2015

Hey Steve - thanks. Hopefully this helps / you find it interesting. Just right of the ledge you stand on at the rest I placed a #3 HB Offset. From the rest I could reach high and place a #2 DMM peanut in the pod Dave refers to above. This is also used to "protect" (I use that loosely) "Beginner's Demise." Two moves higher, a #5 HB Offset fits nicely in the mini roof. Once you surmount the roof, there are considerably more options. I dropped in a nut and just did the last couple moves up the crack to the ledge.

That's just what fit best from my rack, I'm sure comparable things would work for others.

A couple spots lower might take #0 RPs but to me that seemed like more trouble than it was worth. I also didn't hammer in any iron, though that was mostly to save C$ from the fist fight that may have ensued.

I thought this was a great route that climbs more like many of the "directs" than an eliminate, at least until the last three moves when two holds on "Bagatelle" are quite tempting. Other than that, though, it's more or less just climbing straight up the left side of the wall.

The boulder problem at the start is difficult, with the first move being the single hardest move on this or "Bagatelle" for me. I would say that that move is harder than any move on many of "hard" boulders around here. Even if the ground was considerably higher before years of erosion and that move was eliminated, though, the route is clearly the product of a proud effort by Cleveland and Groth on his near-lead. Those guys showed me the way (literally - I talked to Dave about the line on Saturday).
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 20, 2015

Peter, I,m always interested in the gear for these bold ass DL leads. Not because I,m going to come out there and try it ( beyond me anyway) but the gear used gives one a window into the twisted mind of the leader of these types of things. Sounds like nothing bigger than a #5 hb, which ain't very big. It's awesome that you led Bagatelle and this back to back! After just one of those we(dlfa) would have started the party right then and there. I remember Bagatelle pretty well but not much about Phlogiston. Did it on a tr barely with Pete C voiding the ascent for use of "illegal" holds. It's great that Pete Cleveland routes still inspire climbers to pull down hard and that Dave Groth is still at the lake to encourage and inspire other climbers that they should try and climb as hard as possible.
On a side note make sure to buy your belayer a beer cause they were in the moment with you up there! Peace and F-nes Steve S
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Oct 20, 2015

"On a side note make sure to buy your belayer a beer cause they were in the moment with you up there!" ~Steve Sangdahl

By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2015

Haha! No, Peter and I are square on the belay front. He belayed me on my (much less impressive) project-of-the-day.

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