Phlogiston 5.12d R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | Pete Cleveland |
| Submitted By: | David A Groth on Apr 11, 2007 |
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Dave Groth on lead
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Description Another hard DL eliminate, Good climbing just left of Bagatelle. Do the boulder problem between Bagatelle & the arete, then climb to the Bagatelle rest continuing up straight to finish left of Bagatelle
Location Pseudo Hawks nest
Protection Bad gear, small RPs some blades. Best done as a TR.
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Apr 13, 2007
| Yo Dave,Thats a killer photo of you leading Phlogiston! Awesome send! When was that?Is this the hardest dl trad line that has been led? Peace and Fuk-nes Steve S. |
By David A Groth From: Lacrosse Apr 26, 2007
| Steve I never did get the route clean! I fell about 3 feet from the top, I got in a good stopper & peeled. It is a long and good story. During the assent a very verbal and almost violent fight broke out. An unnamed Madison climbing started ranting about ethics. Rich Bechler had to remove him from the base of the route. Meanwhile I was off the rest stance on really shitty gear trying to concentrate with all this shit going on at the base of the route. As soon as I got in some good gear I just lost it and fell. I never when back up on lead. I realized the pinch block I put the wires and copper head in is pretty hollow and did not want to risk it. that's my story! The short version of coarse. I thought the photo was worth putting up! There are way to many TR photos on MP. Dave Groth |
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Apr 29, 2007
| YO Dave G, That is a good story.Just what were you guys doing to arouse the ire of our young ethics policepunter from madison. Using chalk,sticky rubber,camming devices,head pointing,or heaven forbid...drugs and alchol??? OR did one of you clowns steal his girl friend? OR were you clowns just climbing better then the poor punter? And pray tell what was the lads name? |
By David A Groth From: Lacrosse May 5, 2007
| The fight started over the controversial use pins on DL leads. I drove 2 blades in the horizontal at the rest. Same gear as bagatelle. As far as his name I think I will let sleeping dogs lay. I think the real RAD lead yet to be done is cheap thrills! |
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co May 6, 2007
| Dave G, I am pretty sure our young pull-down artist Jason H. recently led CHEAP THRILLS....as well as Peyote Blues. What about N.W. Face of Ceasarian Tower as a rad lead??? peace and fuk-nes |
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Aug 20, 2010
| Was it down graded because of the introduction of sticky-er shoe rubber and better shoe design? |
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