This three pitch mostly crack climb is an anomaly in this day and age as most cracks have been climbed. Lichen is the only thing that protected this crack system from the Chouinard shorted adventurers of the Reef's glory days. As it is now the rock isn't perfect but the lichen that is there is of little consequence and barely diminishes the experience. 1)120ft. Start up corner that leads to a small jumble of rock just up hill from the toe of the lower half of Neptune. Step from this up on to the wall where a clean orange patch of rock is. Follow the crack system up and left a body length until you pull right on to lower angle rock with a stepped dihedral system. A thin crack leads to some face moves left to a blunt arete with 3 bolts or so. Belay on good ledge below some Yosemite like flakes that lead to a tight corner below a small roof. 2)80ft. This is the Start of Endless Edge. Climb up flakes to corner then left around roof and up flake. Use long draws and shoulder length runners to minimize rope drag. Pretty stout climbing and good thin gear leads you to easier crack and two bolts almost side by side and maybe four feet apart. (If you go straight up you will be on Endless Edge 12-.) Clip the right hand bolt with a shoulder length then traverse right on face holds to a nice ledge and anchors. 3)Follow bolted face up then work right past big blocks to the anchors on Warm and Free.
Drop down the drainage past the turn to the ledge where Naranja and Maadim start. Or leave your packs on the main ledge and continue down slabs in gully almost to the toe of lower Neptune. You will see a major weakness with double cracks and about 60 or 70 feet farther down you will see a nice slab arete with two bolts. Farther down you will see crack systems that angle up and left to a couple of stacked blocks just right of the bolted slab arete. Climb to this stack a couple of ways, down and right or straight at it.
Bolts and gear to blue Camalots double up on tiny finger up to red Camalots.
BETA PHOTO: From a distance if you come up hill a little from ...
Jill Hadap on the final slab of the second and las...
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Aug 19, 2013
I have done this three times now and I know that the second pitch can have a lot of drag. Using slings and a minimum of gear I am still unable to reduce the rope drag enough to make the pitch fun to climb so I think I will add a belay and make it a three pitch route. Will post up when I do.
Anchors added so it is now a 3 pitch route.
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 24, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This route is surprisingly good. Three good pitches; the crux pitch (2) is the real deal with devious .11 trad climbing on an engaging flake. Solid gear is readily available but the climbing between the gear will test your technical skills.
The route ends on the large ledge that separates the upper and lower faces of Neptune, so a party can choose from a number of routes to top out.