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I think this is a great route, and certainly one of the toughest for the grade at Rifle. Perhaps its only defect is that every clip seems to be a long stretch away, making it much easier to do the route once the draws are on (use long ones at that!).
This climbs the very colorful blue/black/grey streaked wall right of Eurotrash, of which it is basically a slightly easier version. Boulder up into an acute corner and clip a bolt, then move right to establish yourself on the face over the roof. Continuously crimpy moves define the next 30+ feet of climbing, which is capped by a powerful stretch right into the base of another dihedral. Move left at the top of the dihedral to finish.
This route has grey cold shuts on it. Now, what the hell is a "philibuster?"
|By Neal Carroll|
Sep 21, 2004
This thing is 13a all day long...and a 4 star route!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 17, 2005
One of the very best. Pumpy and sustained, with hardly a shake between the 2nd and 6th bolts. I personally think that In Your Face is a harder 12d to redpoint, though. If you're comparing the grade to other areas, however, this would go as 13b in a certain local climbing area with cream puff ratings that I will not name.
|By Bart Paull|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c
This one is kind of atypical for Rifle, sustained crimps with no rest for a few bolts. It feels harder than Eurotrash.
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
I think this is harder than Eurotrash as well.