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Anti-Phil Wall
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Philibuster 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Eric Candee, Eric Fedor
Page Views: 1,504
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Aug 7, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

I think this is a great route, and certainly one of the toughest for the grade at Rifle. Perhaps its only defect is that every clip seems to be a long stretch away, making it much easier to do the route once the draws are on (use long ones at that!).

This climbs the very colorful blue/black/grey streaked wall right of Eurotrash, of which it is basically a slightly easier version. Boulder up into an acute corner and clip a bolt, then move right to establish yourself on the face over the roof. Continuously crimpy moves define the next 30+ feet of climbing, which is capped by a powerful stretch right into the base of another dihedral. Move left at the top of the dihedral to finish.

This route has grey cold shuts on it. Now, what the hell is a "philibuster?"


Protection 

10-12 quickdraws.



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By Neal Carroll
Sep 21, 2004

This thing is 13a all day long...and a 4 star route!

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 17, 2005

One of the very best. Pumpy and sustained, with hardly a shake between the 2nd and 6th bolts. I personally think that In Your Face is a harder 12d to redpoint, though. If you're comparing the grade to other areas, however, this would go as 13b in a certain local climbing area with cream puff ratings that I will not name.

By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

This one is kind of atypical for Rifle, sustained crimps with no rest for a few bolts. It feels harder than Eurotrash.

By heppnerd
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

I think this is harder than Eurotrash as well.

By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 4, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

I feel this route is much harder than the 12d "laugh fest for grade" that it is given. I understand if you project this route for years and never climb on anything but Rifle, this may feel 12d! But what are we grading routes on in Rifle? Because a lot of the grades seem like they are graded on sending routes and re-doing them a hundred times. Then putting a grade on it for whatever it is! I think this is more like 13a/b!

By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 4, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

By "laugh fest", I do not mean that the route is bad! This route is so amazing. Definitely 4 stars! But I feel that Rifle should just make their own grading system! It's not that this route is crazy crazy hard, considering the rest at midway and the multiple knee bar rests and clips! But if this were an average of the entire country, I think this would easily easily go in the "solid 13a" range. I've climbed in multiple places around the country, as you can see by the favorite places I have marked off on Mountain Project! I love Rifle, but I think that there is a huge ego-thing going on in Rifle, where we stiffen the grades as much as possible, kinda like in Horsepen 40 in Alabama! I just want more of a uniformed grade around the country! :)

By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 4, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

And I agree that some places around the country, "Boulder Canyon", can stiffen their grades quite a bit! I have been on multiple 12a's that have felt like 11c or below! I have graded them lower on "MP" to try to get it lower in the next guidebook! Thank you for hearing me out and if you have comments, I would appreciate feedback! :)