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Routes in French's Dome
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[Redacted] S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Alpha Centauri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Balloon Knot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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BSD S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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China Side S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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China Syndrome S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dark Syndrome S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Do it Again S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Emerald City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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French's Doughnut S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Giant's Direct S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Giant's Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Golden Shower S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jackie Chan S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Low Voltage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Oz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Philanthropy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Psoriasis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pump-Lanthropy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Pump-O-Rama S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Road Face S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Road Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Road Kill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Road Rage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Static Cling S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straw Man S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tin Tangle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Uncle Rick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Phillip Hranicka |
| Page Views: | 2,313 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | phillip Hranicka on Sep 12, 2012 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Philanthropy is a "choose your own adventure route" starting from either Pump O Rama or The Darkside before climbing through 4 new bolts on fun, overhanging, juggy terrain.
Starting from Darkside adds a few fierce, sidepull moves after the crux before the headwall. This certainly is more difficult than the original Darkside, but it might not warrant a bump in grade.
Starting from Pump O Rama, Philanthropy avoids the P.O.R. crux by veering right after the 4th bolt. Clip the first new bolt out right and follow jugs up the steep bulge. Despite huge holds the rest of the way up, the climbing is quite pumpy. This variation makes for a nice 5.11+ addition to the crag. It might be a touch more difficult than Crankenstein. See what you think!
The route is (surprisingly) as clean and solid as anything at French's. However, keep in mind that the route is new and the rock may crumble a bit in spots.
My fellow, beloved humans- have at it!
Starting from Darkside adds a few fierce, sidepull moves after the crux before the headwall. This certainly is more difficult than the original Darkside, but it might not warrant a bump in grade.
Starting from Pump O Rama, Philanthropy avoids the P.O.R. crux by veering right after the 4th bolt. Clip the first new bolt out right and follow jugs up the steep bulge. Despite huge holds the rest of the way up, the climbing is quite pumpy. This variation makes for a nice 5.11+ addition to the crag. It might be a touch more difficult than Crankenstein. See what you think!
The route is (surprisingly) as clean and solid as anything at French's. However, keep in mind that the route is new and the rock may crumble a bit in spots.
My fellow, beloved humans- have at it!
Protection
4 bolts plus anchor with fixed biners.
If starting from The Darkside, clip the first two bolts, fire the crux, then reach up and left to clip the first bolt of Philanthropy. BE CAREFUL with this clip! Blowing it could mean hitting the wooden tier down and right. It is possible to clip a long sling out right (Darkside 3rd bolt) before committing to Philanthropy.
If starting from Pump O Rama, clip the first three bolts before finding a stance out right to clip the first bolt on Philanthropy.
Any potential rope drag issues can be mitigated by clipping long slings to either the last bolt on P.O.R./ Darkside or the first bolt on Philanthropy.
If starting from The Darkside, clip the first two bolts, fire the crux, then reach up and left to clip the first bolt of Philanthropy. BE CAREFUL with this clip! Blowing it could mean hitting the wooden tier down and right. It is possible to clip a long sling out right (Darkside 3rd bolt) before committing to Philanthropy.
If starting from Pump O Rama, clip the first three bolts before finding a stance out right to clip the first bolt on Philanthropy.
Any potential rope drag issues can be mitigated by clipping long slings to either the last bolt on P.O.R./ Darkside or the first bolt on Philanthropy.
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