Skirt the main rock on the right. Hike up a steep trail and reach the top of the main rock. Traverse a ledge to northeast (left) and reach the upper tier (The Overlook).
The route starts just left of Jersey Devil. Crank up on a good hold to clip the first bolt. Better yet, stick clip it. Fire off a series technical moves to a small corner and the second bolt. Make a hard move past the second bolt and reach a good flake. Place several good pieces and then reach a small stance below an overhanging handcrack. Fire up the crack (strenuous) to a weird move and then climb 20 feet to the anchor. Great route in a wonderful and quiet setting. Gets afternoon sun.
Two bolts and cams up to a gold Camalot will get you to the anchor.
Bob working right at the second bolt.
Peter high-stepping at the second bolt.
Bob moving left to the overhanging hand crack.
Greg cranking the roof.
Bob hanging out at the roof.
Susan at the difficult move by the first bolt. Ph...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
I thought that the moves to the shelf after the first bolt were the crux. I wish I'd had a dust-mask, goggles and alcohol up there- so I could brush the guano off of the crux holds without contracting some odd infection or disease. Save for that it's a good climb. I didn't find the feet out and right at the second roof and was goofing off- and found that a good jam and a double toe-hook up and over the roof was bomber. The climb goes up-side-down there with good heels and toes. Fun way to try it anyway and skips the tenuous moves.