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Mustache Wall
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Phenomena 
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Phenomena 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Calder, Marty Lewis (July, '04)
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Bryan G on Jul 19, 2010
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Description 

This is a fun route that will test your route finding skills as much as your crimp strength. Start up the hill a hundred feet or so from Flamethrower. Follow the bolts left on sustained and technical face climbing. Look for the path of least resistance which sometimes requires you to downclimb a couple feet from the bolt before traversing over.

Eventually you'll reach a big jug on steep terrain. Make some cruxy moves to get up onto a thin slab. Move left on the slab and finish on the arete.

From the anchors you can also toprope the burly Dakota Street Bypass (5.12a) which begins directly below and climbs out some steep roofs.


Location 

Uphill from Flamethrower but before (left) of The Notorious B.E.G.


Protection 

11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap



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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Feb 18, 2011

first half is anything but straight-forward, second is good

By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
May 22, 2011

Great climb - all of it! Crimping, mounds, jams, underclings, layback, mantle, a stinking slab.

By Tommy L-D
Sep 19, 2011

Watch the rope with the big flake near the top. Fell and it cut out a nice core shot, yikes!