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King Otto's Castle
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Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 
Bridge, The T 
Casino Royale T 
Date Queen T 
Don Genaro Crack T 
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 
Leaving Las Vegas T 
Panama Red TR 
Phelp's Chevrolet T 
Plain But Good Hearted T 
Shaken Not Stirred T 
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 
Sweat Band T 
Sweat Pants T 
Tarawassie Wiggle T 
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 

Phelp's Chevrolet 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Daniel, Kat Green, Tim Pinar, Brett Pinar, Rhesa Ashbacher, Aaron
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: toddgordon on Jun 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Phelp's Chevrolet

Description 

This route is located at the top of a corridor which is left of King Ottos Castle. Phelp's Chevrolet is located at the upper left side of the corridor, and has one bolt down low, which leads to a small roof and a thin crack. Anchors visible on top. Short but good climbing.


Location 

On a formation left of King Otto's Castle.


Protection 

small to med gear.



Photos of Phelp's Chevrolet Slideshow Add Photo
Making the move over the roof. Get that cam in the crack first!
Making the move over the roof. Get that cam in the...
There are three corridors to the Left of Otto which can lead to some confusion.  Phelp's is in the left-most corridor.  It is also on the right side at the top/end of the corridor.
There are three corridors to the Left of Otto whic...
Comments on Phelp's Chevrolet Add Comment
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By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This thing is fun and you can scramble around back and TR this as well. This would be a super hard lead I think becuase of the fact that I would to put a cam right were my hands go to pull under the roof. Nice job Todd.

By Matt Rauch
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Oct 18, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Cool moves and variations on this route. Short but good for late afternoon shade as we hit this after work. The route is still pretty grainy and I almost came off when my left foot hold broke off while I was making the move over the roof. Awesome. Be sure to get a #2 cam in the crack above the roof before trying to finish the move. It's blind placement but the spot will eat the piece. If you don't you'll face serious deck potential if you come off during the move. It was a tricky lead but could be real fun on TR.

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Oct 19, 2012

Great job, Matt;...it's a "full value" lead for 5.9;.....keeping the grade honest. Not a give-away 5.9.

By Richard Shore
Dec 23, 2012

Gritty, nasty rock for most of the climb, questionable pro, powerful roof. What the heck - I'll give it two stars for "character"

By i.reynaud
From: Long Beach, Ca
Dec 27, 2012

Todd told us about this one when we were climbing another route. We scrambled around back and set up a TR on the anchor. Some balancing moves at the start, up to an undercling, pull some roof, then work some crack to the anchor. Awesome!!!