|King Otto's Castle
This route is located at the top of a corridor which is left of King Ottos Castle. Phelp's Chevrolet is located at the upper left side of the corridor, and has one bolt down low, which leads to a small roof and a thin crack. Anchors visible on top. Short but good climbing.
On a formation left of King Otto's Castle.
small to med gear.
Making the move over the roof. Get that cam in the...
There are three corridors to the Left of Otto whic...
|By shelby beardslee|
From: 29 Palms, CA
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This thing is fun and you can scramble around back and TR this as well. This would be a super hard lead I think becuase of the fact that I would to put a cam right were my hands go to pull under the roof. Nice job Todd.
|By Matt Rauch|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Oct 18, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cool moves and variations on this route. Short but good for late afternoon shade as we hit this after work. The route is still pretty grainy and I almost came off when my left foot hold broke off while I was making the move over the roof. Awesome. Be sure to get a #2 cam in the crack above the roof before trying to finish the move. It's blind placement but the spot will eat the piece. If you don't you'll face serious deck potential if you come off during the move. It was a tricky lead but could be real fun on TR.
From: Joshua Tree, California
Oct 19, 2012
Great job, Matt;...it's a "full value" lead for 5.9;.....keeping the grade honest. Not a give-away 5.9.
|By Richard Shore|
Dec 23, 2012
Gritty, nasty rock for most of the climb, questionable pro, powerful roof. What the heck - I'll give it two stars for "character"
From: Long Beach, Ca
Dec 27, 2012
Todd told us about this one when we were climbing another route. We scrambled around back and set up a TR on the anchor. Some balancing moves at the start, up to an undercling, pull some roof, then work some crack to the anchor. Awesome!!!