Phatt Ass  5.9-

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  Mark Sargent, Mike Kurilich, Phil Baldwin July 2009 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Mark Sgt on Aug 16, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

5.8/5.9 Start is just right of the large right facing corner. Ascend the crack rising in an upward right traverse, using funky cross-thru lieback moves clipping 7 grey bolts. Pretty cool and unique climbing. More experienced climbers may be able to miss out on some bolts by making semi-blind pro placements at their feet as they layback; just realize the crack flairs in places and the traversing nature of the lower crack combined with the ground upsloping has you at groundfall potential longer than other cracks of this length. However you do it - it’s a climbers choice. Continue up thru the left side of a crack/break placing either a medium stopper or tech friend and then up left for 5 more bolts to anchor. 12 bolts total. 20 meters

Protection 

Depending how you approach the lead. Either clip bolts and maybe one medium stopper placement or more experienced leaders could place small/medium cams and small wires. More experienced climbers may be able to miss out on some bolts by making semi-blind pro placements at their feet as they layback; just realize the crack flairs in places and the traversing nature of the lower crack combined with the ground upsloping has you at groundfall potential longer than other cracks of this length. However you do it - it’s a climbers choice.