Phase III 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | FA Pat Munn and Dave Hough, 7/75 FFA Gary Allan, Tom Schwarm, and Dave Hough |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Nov 24, 2007 |
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Jake Hadden leading the route at a crux section......
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Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
Season Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Big, mean, and foreboding--Phase III delivers the goods in one nasty pitch of body-thrutching hatred. Put on your ratty dungarees, tape up, and send.
Phase III begins to the right of Son of a Mother in the obvious off-width crack, and continues for 90 feet in the same crack. The crux comes--like many routes on this cliff--at about 2/3 height. It involves moving through an overhanging corner sans discernible feet.
Finish up easier terrain to chain anchors.
Location The left side of the cliff. At the height of the climbers trail, go left about 100 yards and locate the obvious offwidth of Phase 3.
Protection A nice size rack with several #2, #3, and #4 Camalots.
By Jonathan Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 22, 2010
rating: 5.9+
| This is a really cool route (if you enjoy OW). A little OW technique will keep you from grunting too much. |
By Greg Kuchyt
Jul 10, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| A rack from .3-#1 C4 size plus double BD 3s and a BD 3.5 worked pretty well for me on this. The second roof and the corner leading up to it is really a 3.5 size crack. 3 is just a little wide and I think a 4 would be hard to fit in. Double 3.5 would have been ideal.
I feel like it's more a wide-hands to fist crack at the crux than off-width? |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jul 10, 2011
| Greg,
I agree about it being wide hands rather than off-width. I'm going to be over there a couple days this week, so I'll have to get back on it to see which way I quiver my way up it! |
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jul 12, 2011
| To me, off-width means "larger than fists". If you have small hands, then this qualifies. Otherwise, it's "off-hands", meaning cups or fists. Whatever -- it's splitting hairs. Suffice to say that it's an awkward size and protects well with 3" - 4" cams. |
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Jul 8, 2012
| This climb is a sick exercise of strenuous & insecure lay-backs and fist-jams. No OW section to be found anywhere on it. 3 #4's and 2 #3 camelots help. |
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