Phase Dance 5.12-
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Dave Dangle/ Rex Mammelm, Sept., 1992 |
| Submitted By: | Walt Wehner on Sep 28, 2001 |
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Upper crux.
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Description This route tackles the smooth face just left of a major left-facing corner (about 50 yards north of The Apple Bites Back). It's a sustained 5.11 face climb to a killer crux at the top.
Protection 10 bolts. It's long, but you only need a 50m to lower.
About to start the first crux section.
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Midway up the route.
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A tricky section.
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Basically done.
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Not the best clipping holds.
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Approaching the first (easiest) roof on Phase Danc...
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Mike wishing he had sunglasses for the upper crux.
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By gunter
May 5, 2013
CONDITION REPORT | The top anchors were looking pretty shitty as of today. |
By Rex Mammel
Mar 30, 2002
| Very tough crux bulge to flash. |
By Jesse Ryan
Jun 22, 2004
rating: 5.12a
| Yes, hard to read. Great line. |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 13, 2007
rating: 5.12-
| This route has 10 bolts on it and the Shelf Road guide states 7 bolts. Luckily for me I was hang-dogging it a bit up top and could back clean a couple of draws for the final two clips. :-) Enjoyable route for sure. |
By Osiris Graves
From: Denver,co
Oct 5, 2009
| I thought this was a great route very sustained with a nice jug before the crux. Hard to figure out at first but not bad with good beta. |
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 1, 2009
rating: 5.12-
| Very tough onsight. Hell, it was hard after I took at the crux, lol. Tricky, but awesome and very unique. Stays with you the whole way. |
By BrendanP
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.12b
| Hitting the crux in sequence is very difficult, a take/fall at bolt eight lets you cheat the beta pretty hard. |
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