Pharaoh's Hat Rock Climbing
The view from the upper part of Pharaoh's Glen to ...
Secluded and north facing with an absolutely stunning approach hike, this place is about the closest thing to paradise. Noise from the trucks on I-80 and the limestone mill across the canyon does creep up, however, so there are quieter areas. Climbers accessing these routes must respect the owners property and keep a very low profile while visitng here.
NOTE: The FA of Pharaoh's Hat (the tower) was most likely done in 1991 by Tim Broughton and party via a line just to the right of Cat In The Hat on left side of the North Face. Just above Hat Trick, two old fixed pitons were recently found. One has had a sling attached to make it more noticeable and has been incorporated into the easy second pitch of Hat Trick. The rusted ring piton has been left for historical value and is about 1.5 m to the left of the last bolt on the second pitch of Hat Trick. 5.7, two pitches?. Old weathered belay/rap slings around a spike of rock can still be seen in the notch 20m below the tower top to the SW. Tim told me they called the route Bitchin' Charmay (or Charpay???...I don't know dogs very well), after a name of a particular dog breed. Tim remembers the rock quality on his climb to be pretty chossy (hence the reason he did not report it to the Ruckmans), whereas the rock we encountered was NOT. Lichen covered quartzite, yet quite sound in character.
Once the car is parked as for the climbs in Pharoah's Glen, the view to the south will reveal a sweeping eastern shoulder to the tower called Pharoah's Hat. Once on the landscaped rock stairway, look for a faint trail that veers off to the east (left) marked by red dots spray painted on the rock. These trail markings were painted by the landowner. Follow the dotted trail to the hinterland of Pharaoh's Glen toward the Hat.
Weather station 0.9 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Pharaoh's Hat
Cat In The Hat 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Pharaoh's Hat
Pitch #1: From the corner ledge, climb directly up the edge(arete). Initially, some dirty (but easy) grass hummock 3rd class scrambling leads to a bolt and steepening terrain. Follow the arete past a few more bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.7, 55m.Pitch #2: Hop along the crest to the spectacular summit ridge of the tower passing two bolts to the final two-bolt belay. Improbable position and beautiful views. Sign in the tower top register and spray away. 5.5, 30m....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Sep 4, 2008
Back in 1986 while attending the UofU my climbing partner Kam and I climbed the routes on the Pharoh's hat, as well as on the north face route detailed here. I remember choss and fear on the face, but it did protect well enough to push through to the top. A down climb can be had off the back - carefully. We were up there at the time Smoot began to bolt at the mouth of the canyon. There is even a 10c on the north side - bolted - at the quarry on the only good piece of limestone there - sharp and brittle, but fun. If you look up high right at the top of the triangular shaped wall you can still see the slings. We did Pocket Rocket before the bolts - not recommended - it was run out and scary - but fun - we were glad when it got bolted. In 1988 we hiked way back up past the reef to top rope the climb that is now bolted - called Angry White Male - we loved it - but decided not to bolt cause we thought nobody would ever go back up to repeat it. It was great to see people with a Bosch go and fix up some of the old run out obscure lines we scoped out back in the day. Thanks James!
By James Garrett
Oct 23, 2008
post some more pics! If you are needing an hour to hike to the hat, you must be doing more bushwhacking than me? what a place, huh? Brian, were you the ones who rapped off that chossy pedestal from slings? Would like to hear more details of these climbs back then!