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Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.3 from 11
votes
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Frost, Yvon Chouinard, and Ken Weeks (1959) |
| Page Views: | 3,520 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Oct 11, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Pharaoh's Beard is a small exfoliation flake propped up against the Sentinel Creek Wall. It is located a couple hundred yards uphill and to the right of Manana. The Regular Route is a historic climb that doesn't get done much these days. Like most climbs at Sentinel Creek it's in the shade until the afternoon, and the second half of the route is always in the shade.
The route begins on the right side of the formation. Jam your way up easy flakes to reach a tree. Monkey your way through the tree and climb a fun clean offwidth to a ledge with an old piton anchor.
The next pitch climbs the right side of a flake and then you step left into a corner. Move to the left side of Pharaoh's Beard and climb some chossy flakes to a tree. You can belay here if you want or link this with the 3rd pitch if the rope drag's not too bad.
Claw your way through the tree (this one's much more difficult than the first) and enter a chimney. Pass a chockstone and then tunnel up behind the last portion of the formation to the summit.
Rappel the route with one 70m rope. The summit anchors are new bolts. The rap station at the top of pitch 1 belongs in a museum and consists of a 1/4" bolt, 2 pitons (all over 50 years old!) and a fixed nut that I added in 2011.
The route begins on the right side of the formation. Jam your way up easy flakes to reach a tree. Monkey your way through the tree and climb a fun clean offwidth to a ledge with an old piton anchor.
The next pitch climbs the right side of a flake and then you step left into a corner. Move to the left side of Pharaoh's Beard and climb some chossy flakes to a tree. You can belay here if you want or link this with the 3rd pitch if the rope drag's not too bad.
Claw your way through the tree (this one's much more difficult than the first) and enter a chimney. Pass a chockstone and then tunnel up behind the last portion of the formation to the summit.
Rappel the route with one 70m rope. The summit anchors are new bolts. The rap station at the top of pitch 1 belongs in a museum and consists of a 1/4" bolt, 2 pitons (all over 50 years old!) and a fixed nut that I added in 2011.
Location
From Manana, skirt the base to the right on a faint trail. Then head uphill in a gully and keep trending up and right until you come to a boulder filled clearing. At this point you will see Pharaoh's Beard and an easy scramble will lead to the base.
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