This route is located up Devils Canyon. See Bjorstads book DESRT ROCK III (page 254) for the location. If you are broke, just go into a climbing shop with a pencil and paper and dictate it down out of the book. If you hike up the canyon, you'll see a thumb-like spire on the left (east) in about 40-45 minutes. There is no way to mistake this spire, as it is the only one on the left (east) side. Do NOT hump pitons up there, like the book says. I got throught the crux with medium nuts and cams. Approach the route, by hiking south then climbing up slabs, then heading back north to the saddle between the spire and the rimrock. Start on the left-most of cracks. This is the only clean dihedral there (look for scrape marks from gear). The anchor is actuall 15' below the summit. You can climb up to the summit, then "hand-over-hand rappel back to the drilled anchor via a slung hueco. You will see the faded webbing near the summit. Fun route. Check out Kit Carsons name inscribed in the saddle near the start of the climb. DO NOT BRING PITONS, save your back for more worthy sherpa outings.-tda
Cams from blue Metolius to 3" friends. Many quickdraws/biners. A knife and some chain for the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The whole route can be seen.
Look for a shiny bolt...
The view up canyon from the route. A few more tow...
BETA PHOTO: Phantom Spire from approach trail.
|Comments on Phantom Spire
From: grand junction, co
Oct 30, 2011
Really. If you climb this, bring a knife and maybe a new bolt for the anchor.