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Phantom Pinnacle 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 290'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,373
Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on Jun 12, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Phantom and Moby Grape

Description 

This climb is located about 50' to the left of Moby Grape.

P1 (125') - Start at an arch that goes from right to left and ends about 1/2 way up the slabs above you. The arch is about 45 feet in height at the top. Stay in the arch as long as you can, placing pro; because there is no pro on the slab above the arch until you reach the steeper roof. After stepping out of the arch, climb straight up the slabs to the steeper roof. The slabs are about 40' of up to 5.4 climbing with no pro (R). At the roof, I took the path of least resistance traversing 10' feet right, up some cracks, then going left again back to the exposed big flakes. Climb up to a big grassy ledge to set your belay.

P2 (160') - Climb the beautiful hand crack angling to the left, and then head straight up to the big roof. Traverse under the roof right passing under a sculptured cave. Emerge from the cave and step right onto an arÍte. Follow a hand/fist crack, passing an old piton straight up to the large headwall. Use a couple of long slings on this pitch to avoid rope drag.

Descent: Traverse to your left (Southwest) along the ledges below the headwall over 4th class terrain until you reach a big gully with trees. You may want to belay your partner over this traverse. About 40 feet into the traverse, there are some anchor bolts, but they are not designed for rappelling.

Other:- At the 1st belay, it is possible to escape by down climbing left about 20' to some anchors that are 90' off the deck.- On the first pitch it looks like you can climb up to the steeper roof over easier terrain with good protection using a gully with cracks that begins about 10' left of Moby Grape.- The second pitch probably has other interesting variations.- I'm giving this climb 2.5 stars: 2 for the first pitch, and 3 for the second pitch.


Protection 

Set of nuts, set of cams (small to 3"), and a couple of double slings.



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By Merlin
From: Grand Junction
Jul 29, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

According to one local guidebook author the actual route starts at the base of Moby Grape but angles leftward up a slab until it reaches the flake/roof mentioned here. Done this way it is not remotely R. It's not really a roof either, more like a series of steps with a bulge.

We stayed roped up on the traverse off and threw 4 or 5 pieces of gear into on the traverse to prevent a fatal slip on otherwise easy slab.

By Alex A
Apr 17, 2010

The rock climbing Colorado guide has same description, as posted here,

By Stewart M. Green
Apr 18, 2010

Phantom Pinnacle was originally done in the early 1970s by climbing up left on the ramp from the base of Moby Grape as I describe in my Rock Climbing Colorado book. It's easy to climb the ramp and you can plug a couple pieces in if you're nervous. I've climbed the way described above too, but that's a variation.

If you want to do a good newer route, then climb partway up the ramp and then launch up the face above to a short, hanging corner to a scoop ledge. There's a few bolts above and a 2-bolt anchor. Continue up a second easier pitch to the big overhang. It's called "More Tea Vicar?" (5.7) FA: Stewart Green, Dennis Jump, and Brian Shelton, 2009.

By Alex A
Apr 19, 2010

Looking at the beta photo in the book, the original route is not in the book, but the variation is, the description is vague, will find out for myself this week.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 12, 2010

Pretty scary lead for a 5.7 but that just added to the excitement. Has a real "alpine" feel to it.