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The Far Side
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Double Undercling S 
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Phantom Fugitives 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeremy Collins
Page Views: 1,564
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 20, 2006

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Erik on Phantom Fugitives, just off of the startin...

Description 

Probably my favorite route in Missouri!

After clipping the first bolt, climb the mini roof dihedral up and left to a ledge. Then head up and a little right on face climbing. Some of this section is not very good quality rock, but it's ok. Aim for the base of the clean dihedral/roof about 50 feet up. There, pull left into the dihedral/roof. After getting up a little, head back right and up to the anchors on a ledge. See note in pro section about descent and cleaning. Most of the climb has great rock.

Location 

On the prow of the Far Side buttress, start on the highest ledge you can walk on. A very low bolt clippable from here is the start of the route.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. #0.75 and 1 Camalots are helpful, as well as 2 shoulder slings. Rap or walkoff in the gully to the left/west. DO NOT LOWER TO CLEAN, a second should do this, or reclimb on TR.

You can rap with a 50m rope.


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