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Phantom Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,470
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on May 24, 2006

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Divesh Bhatt leads Phantom Crack.

Description 

One of the classics of the area, and the back cover of Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills 6th Ed. Climb a somewhat chossy slab (5.6) with limited protection to a small ledge with a hand crack in it. Jam the crack to the top (5.9). Some people do this as one pitch or set up a belay at the ledge below the hand crack. You can easily rap in with a single 60m rope, not sure about 50m.
  • RCM&W #42, p.214.

Location 

Phantom crack lies about 10 yards north of a rock retaining wall overlook in a corner. The crack is clearly visible from further down the cliff, making it quite photogenic.

Protection 

Nuts and small cams for the bottom. Hand sized hexes and cams for the top. For the top rope setup I found a large cam (fist sized), nuts and tri-cams are helpful.


Photos of Phantom Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: me leading phantom. Photo: Taylor Krosbakken
me leading phantom. Photo: Taylor Krosbakken
Rock Climbing Photo: Mat Sahli Leading Phantom Crack
Mat Sahli Leading Phantom Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek Jamming up the top of Phantom Crack
Derek Jamming up the top of Phantom Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: laybacking on up Phantom
laybacking on up Phantom
Rock Climbing Photo: me leading phantom in 2008
me leading phantom in 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Final shot of unknown climber
Final shot of unknown climber
Rock Climbing Photo: Anna jams Phantom crack.
Anna jams Phantom crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber in yellow on Hidden Treasure, climber in p...
BETA PHOTO: Climber in yellow on Hidden Treasure, climber in p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on Phantom
Unknown climber on Phantom
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Bratlie on the ledge between the 5.6 lower se...
BETA PHOTO: Mark Bratlie on the ledge between the 5.6 lower se...
Rock Climbing Photo: Second in sequence of unknown climber
Second in sequence of unknown climber
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrea up in the crux crack.
Andrea up in the crux crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: andrew seconding phantom Photo: Taylor Krosbakken
andrew seconding phantom Photo: Taylor Krosbakken

Comments on Phantom Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Unfortunately the good part of this climb is only abut 10 meters long. If it were longer, it would be a truly awesome route. This, Superior and Quettico make a nice afternoon round-up.
By Scott Schumann
From: SLC, UT
Nov 29, 2012

Sandbag 5.9. Cruxy move down low to get in the to good hands up above. Yet another must do classic on the Shore.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jun 30, 2013

A must do. A good lead or easily toproped. One short crux section but it's all there for the patient climber.

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