|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Olsen, Colley, 1989|
|Season:||Shade in afternoon.|
|Submitted By:||ferrells on Jun 25, 2010|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Phantasmagoria||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
May 2, 2011
|I like technical Smith edges, so I think this first pitch is higher quality than Orgasmaphoria (the second pitch, which is cool and long but less sustained). You can rap off the first pitch with a 60m rope to the grassy starting ledge, or 70m puts you on the ground.|
From: Bend, Or.
May 31, 2011
|I disagree that there are fifty other climbs with the same moves at Smith. Just the type of rock alone, makes it quite unique. Beautiful climb. But yes, if you can, go for the second pitch as well.|
From: Roseburg, OR
Oct 22, 2011
|Really good. Use slings on third and fourth bolts to reduce drag for the hard move up top.|
By Heather V.
Jan 30, 2012
|I managed a rap off a 60m. It was close, but with rope stretch you can make it to the bottom.|
By Nate Ball
From: Taipei, TW
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The "walk-off" is sh!t... unprotected, with certain horrendous injury in case of a slip. To put it in perspective, it's a right hand jam/lay back, with a really high left foot over a 20-foot ramp leading down into a precipitous gully that ends 200 feet below. Rap Super Slab: two ropes, or 70m and downclimb.
This single pitch is great, but would agree that there are a million other climbs like it. Fun, sustained, high quality.
The approach is simple and straightforward. Definitely not 5.6; more like 5.2.
By Aaron Nash
May 27, 2014
|Link this with the top two pitches of Titanium Jag for a fantastic climb. Much better than the other sport pitch above this one|