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Phantasmagoria 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Sharon Vaughan, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 700
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 1, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: The second pitch of Phantasmagoria. Climb cracks ...

Description 

Good crack climbing, excellent rock. Begin 15 feet down and left from Tales of Power. Look for a bolt.

P1. Climb corners and roofs just left of Tales of Power (11a, 3 bolts plus gear to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet). The second bolt is difficult to clip until you position yourself correctly, then it is easy. The crux is in moving past the second bolt. This is all rather tricky.

P2. Discontinuous cracks lead upward (10a, 2 bolts plus gear to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet).

This route is easily done as one long lead. Belay from the top, then rappel twice.


Protection 

Gear up to 2.5 inches. There are also 5 bolts to cover blank sections.



Photos of Phantasmagoria Slideshow Add Photo
Peter Dillon cranking the crux of Phantasmagoria by the second bolt.
Peter Dillon cranking the crux of Phantasmagoria b...
Bob D'Antonio working up to the crux on Phantasmagoria.
Bob D'Antonio working up to the crux on Phantasmag...
The first pitch of Phantasmagoria.  Clip the first bolt, step up and place gear, the work up and clip the second bolt.  Make a difficult step left, then climb easier rock up and left to the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Phantasmagoria. Clip the first...
Bob D'Antonio at the delicate slab move by the top bolt on the second pitch of Phantasmagoria. <br /> <br />Down to the left, Laurie Lambe is at the first-pitch anchor on Tales of Power.
Bob D'Antonio at the delicate slab move by the top...
Comments on Phantasmagoria Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Jun 23, 2004

A weak one star and a one move wonder. About 120' if the two pitches are linked. We trundled a 40 lb death hold, a teetering pillar situated exactly where anyone would grab it; wonder why previous parties didn't remove this hazard.

By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Jun 7, 2008

The first pitch of this rte is really quite fun and the pro is straight fwd and solid. I would agree that it is a one move wonder, which by the way is completely bolt protected, but I didn't find any loose rock, perhaps it has cleaned up a little. With a little more traffic the little potato chips and stray lichen would all be gone. I think it's definitely worth doing and there's never anyone on it.