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Climb the technical slab maybe 5.12- up to the roof. After a few moves out the roof you will encounter a sequence on badly sloping pinches that requires good body tension to climb through. After this the rest of the route is easier to the anchors. If you can convince someone to TR it to clean that would be in your best interests as cleaning while lowering is a pain.
The right hand route out the huge roof towards the right side of the main crag. Just right of Twinkie.
Bolts and bolted anchor.
Zeb on the slabish start... Entering the business on the stellar Phantasia. Katie Brown on the severe overhang, photo: Bob Hor...
Katie Brown on the sheer slab portion, photo: Bob ... It really is that steep. Finishing up the crux se...