Enjoying the popular jughaul "Twinkie" a...
Phantasia is the Red River Gorge's original roadside sport crag. It has a nice spread of routes from the gumby classic testpiece Creture Feature to the insanely steep and insanely classic Twinkie.
Despite the rock being predominantly northeast facing the rock quality is surprisingly good.
From Slade take highway 15 west for 1 mile. Turn right onto hwy 77. Continue on 77 through Nada Tunnel and across the Iron Bridge (Menifee Co. Line). Drive a bit further to a split in the road and bear left heading up the hill. When the rock becomes visible to the left side of the road look for pulloffs on the right. There is an obvious trail that will take you from the biggest pulloff to Creature Feature.
Parking area GPS: 37.8449, -83.6434
Weather station 2.2 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Phantasia
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Phantasia:
Overlord 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Creep Show 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Twinkie 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Phantasia 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Phantasia
Creep Show 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b KY
: Red River Gorge
A pumpy 10d next to a technical 11b. I've heard it several times that climbers believed that the grades on these two routes were reversed!Get on to the left of the two sport routes and head up and left on it into an awkward and pumpy left-leaning flake. Balance and grip your way to the anchors on this climb, then compare to the route to the right......[more] Browse More Classics in KY
Enjoying the stellar Creep Show.
From: New Hampshire
Feb 24, 2009
I'm excited to get my fingers on the various steep routes on this wall this spring. :)