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Phantasia

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Attack of the Sand Shark T 
Bobsledding T 
Count Floyd Show S 
Creature Feature T,S 
Creep Show S 
Grand Bazaar T 
Gum Traverse, The T 
Le Petite Bazaar T 
Lord of the Flies S 
Luck's Up S 
Overlord S 
Perverse Intentions S 
Phantasia S 
Pogue Ethics S 
St. Alfonso's T 
Tomfoolery T 
Twinkie S 
You Got Served T 

Phantasia Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.84495, -83.64369 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,370
Administrators: Jason Halladay, DisturbingThePeace, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

56°
Saturday

72° | 60°
Sunday

77° | 56°
Monday

68° | 50°
Tuesday

67° | 49°
Wednesday

70° | 47°
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Description 

Phantasia is the Red River Gorge's original roadside sport crag. It has a nice spread of routes from the gumby classic testpiece Creture Feature to the insanely steep and insanely classic Twinkie.

Despite the rock being predominantly northeast facing the rock quality is surprisingly good.

Getting There 

From Slade take highway 15 west for 1 mile. Turn right onto hwy 77. Continue on 77 through Nada Tunnel and across the Iron Bridge (Menifee Co. Line). Drive a bit further to a split in the road and bear left heading up the hill. When the rock becomes visible to the left side of the road look for pulloffs on the right. There is an obvious trail that will take you from the biggest pulloff to Creature Feature.

Parking area GPS: 37.8449, -83.6434

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Phantasia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Phantasia:
St. Alfonso's   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bobsledding   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Attack of the Sand Shark   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Creature Feature   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Pogue Ethics   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Perverse Intentions   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Overlord   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Creep Show   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Count Floyd Show   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Twinkie   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Phantasia   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Phantasia

Featured Route For Phantasia
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the business on the stellar Phantasia.

Phantasia 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia
Climb the technical slab maybe 5.12- up to the roof. After a few moves out the roof you will encounter a sequence on badly sloping pinches that requires good body tension to climb through. After this the rest of the route is easier to the anchors. If you can convince someone to TR it to clean that would be in your best interests as cleaning while lowering is a pain....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Photos of Phantasia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the popular jughaul "Twinkie" a...
Enjoying the popular jughaul "Twinkie" a...

Comments on Phantasia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Feb 24, 2009
I'm excited to get my fingers on the various steep routes on this wall this spring. :)

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