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Phantasia

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Attack of the Sand Shark T 
Bobsledding T 
Count Floyd Show S 
Creature Feature T,S 
Creep Show S 
Grand Bazaar T 
Gum Traverse, The T 
Le Petite Bazaar T 
Lord of the Flies S 
Luck's Up S 
Overlord S 
Perverse Intentions S 
Phantasia S 
Pogue Ethics S 
St. Alfonso's T 
Tomfoolery T 
Twinkie S 
You Got Served T 

Phantasia Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.84495, -83.64369 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,518
Administrators: Jason Halladay, DisturbingThePeace, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
Forecast:
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Description 

Phantasia is the Red River Gorge's original roadside sport crag. It has a nice spread of routes from the gumby classic testpiece Creture Feature to the insanely steep and insanely classic Twinkie.

Despite the rock being predominantly northeast facing the rock quality is surprisingly good.

Getting There 

From Slade take highway 15 west for 1 mile. Turn right onto hwy 77. Continue on 77 through Nada Tunnel and across the Iron Bridge (Menifee Co. Line). Drive a bit further to a split in the road and bear left heading up the hill. When the rock becomes visible to the left side of the road look for pulloffs on the right. There is an obvious trail that will take you from the biggest pulloff to Creature Feature.

Parking area GPS: 37.8449, -83.6434

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Phantasia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Phantasia:
St. Alfonso's   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bobsledding   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Attack of the Sand Shark   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Creature Feature   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Pogue Ethics   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Perverse Intentions   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Overlord   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Creep Show   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Count Floyd Show   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Twinkie   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Phantasia   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Phantasia

Featured Route For Phantasia
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving fast up Twinkie.  Photo by, Liam Griffin

Twinkie 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia
One of the most popular 5.12a's at the Red, Twinkie is an excellent route with two distinct personalities: yellow & spongey at first, followed by a white creamy center. And just like the Hostess version, it helps to be well-rounded to enjoy this treat.Begin with a reachy boulder problem to gain the slab. Easy moves between slopey pockets leads to a gnarly little slab crux involving a sharp 1/4" crimp and a sidepull mono. Above this a series of jugs lead to a great rest below the intimidating...[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Photos of Phantasia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the popular jughaul "Twinkie" a...
Enjoying the popular jughaul "Twinkie" a...

Comments on Phantasia Add Comment
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By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Feb 24, 2009
I'm excited to get my fingers on the various steep routes on this wall this spring. :)

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