Phallus In Suck-It-Land 5.8 R
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 320 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Ken Brink 1986 |
| Submitted By: | Bryson Slothower on Jun 10, 2002 |
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Roof on pitch 1.
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description Phallus in Suck-It-Land is a good route with a great name!Start from the Upper Ramp as you would for Alice in Bucket Land, on the right side of the large cave that is just left of the start for Upper Ruper. This route doesn't see much traffic but has good moves and wild exposure, expect some pretty spicy runouts on lichen covered rock. The holds stay juggy most of the way but be careful what you yard on.
Pitch 1: 120 feet 5.8 SFollow the first pitch of Alice. From the right side of the cave move up and right through the roof to big holds on the face then angle up and left through the hueco covered face to a double piton anchor below an arching roof. You may also start with Upper Ruper and climb the first 15 feet of that route, clip a piton and cut hard left 5.8vs.
Pitch 2: 100 feet 5.8 SMove left from the belay and turn the roof at an obvious weakness (5.8 S). After the roof head straight up the face following the path of least resistance and pass through two roofs (both 5.8) until you reach a decent ledge to belay. The exact line, grade and protection on this pitch probably vary a bit for each climber, there are many options, choose what looks best for you keeping the small tree near the top of the face in your sights as a landmark and savor the exposure.
Pitch 3: 90 feet 5.4Can be combined with pitch 2. Follow jugs up to the saddle where Upper Ruper ends.
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Protection The standard stuff will do but if you want to avoid runouts as much as possible bring some bigger stuff to put in the huecos, maybe large tri-cams.
| Comments on Phallus In Suck-It-Land |
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By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 8, 2009
| Wow, talk about adventure climbing, I was either off-route soon after pulling the first roof, or no one's been up there for a while...great if you like feeling like you're doing an FA and eating lichen. BUT a lot of the moves were good, and you get to wander all over that face with great exposure. I wouldn't recommend it, but I'd do it again. |
By Gregger Man
May 16, 2010
| Climbed this without checking the topo or description. Went left far enough to clip the one bolt belay ledge that's part of upper Grand Giraffe. That's a fun dihedral. I worked back right from there and rejoined the route to run it to the top. More fun than P2 of Alice, IMHO. [take a 60m or 70m rope] |
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