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 ADVANCED
Wendell Spire
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Bob's Nob 
Castlewood Capers 
Cheesedick Soiree 
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Horizontal Bop 
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Nob Job 
Noodlers' Nightmare 
Nose Job 
Phalloid Void 
Pit Viper 
Pocket, The 
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Sidewinder 
Slot, The 
Song of the Wood 
Sub, The 
Sun Cave Direct 
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Svengali 
Textured Landscape 
Triskaidekaphobia 
Unsorted Routes:

Phalloid Void 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Hanson, 1994
Page Views: 1,063
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 6, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Phalloid Void.
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Description 

Climb up Wendell Spire on crisp edges and pockets. This is much harder than it looks with an interesting crux just below the anchor. However, there are two bulges to surmount and each has its own curve to throw. If things don't work out as planned, there is a nice tanning slab at the base that is usually crowded with gorgeous women!! I've always wondered if that was somehow responsible for the name.


Protection 

Bring half a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of Phalloid Void Slideshow Add Photo
Jarrod pulls into the final crux.
Jarrod pulls into the final crux.
Climber is Darrin Stein puling just over the bulge to the anchors.
Climber is Darrin Stein puling just over the bulge...
The right sector, Phalloid Void is #1.
The right sector, Phalloid Void is #1.
Alex toproping one of his first sport climbs ever.
Alex toproping one of his first sport climbs ever.
Ken leading on Phalloid Void.
Ken leading on Phalloid Void.
Tim tops out.
Tim tops out.
Climbing Phalloid Void.
Climbing Phalloid Void.
Comments on Phalloid Void Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darrin Stein
From: Laurens, SC
Dec 10, 2001

As noted.... This climb is on the right hand side of the area. Climb four bolts then the anchors on the unique Castlewood Conglomerate (nature's cement I call it).

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Dec 1, 2002
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The only crux I think is the mantel over the bulge.

By Darin Lang
Jan 24, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

2 stars for the area, although short.

Crux is the mantel between the second and third bolts. The rest is no harder than 5.9.

By Ken McVicker
Mar 15, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Great crux near the top. It's easy down low but get harder as you go.

Great sunny day. Lots of observer from the hiking trail below. 20+ people watched me flail. Sorry no sunbathing women.

This rating is right on.

By TJ Quirk
From: Parker, CO
Mar 14, 2010

Strength required up to the first bulge. Good balance required through the reach over the second bulge to the jug. Love the comitting dyno over the second bulge. Need strength to finish the sequence to reach over and right of the anchors to the great handhold on top.

By Jon Solove
From: Denver, CO
Apr 4, 2010

Very cool route. Be careful not to go too far left - there is some loose, spongy rock that looks like it's ready to come off. It's off route, but weirdly inviting until you touch it....

By Stephen Palermo
Dec 4, 2010

You'll want a couple of double draws for the bolts above the bulges to reduce rope drag.