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The right sector, Phalloid Void is #1.
Climb up Wendell Spire on crisp edges and pockets. This is much harder than it looks with an interesting crux just below the anchor. However, there are two bulges to surmount and each has its own curve to throw. If things don't work out as planned, there is a nice tanning slab at the base that is usually crowded with gorgeous women!! I've always wondered if that was somehow responsible for the name.
Bring half a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Climber is Darrin Stein puling just over the bulge...
Alex toproping one of his first sport climbs ever.
Tim tops out.
Jarrod pulls into the final crux.
Ken leading on Phalloid Void.
|Comments on Phalloid Void
|By Darrin Stein|
From: Milwaukee, WI
Dec 10, 2001
As noted.... This climb is on the right hand side of the area. Climb four bolts then the anchors on the unique Castlewood Conglomerate (nature's cement I call it).
|By Ben Mottinger|
Dec 1, 2002
The only crux I think is the mantel over the bulge.
|By Darin Lang|
Jan 24, 2003
2 stars for the area, although short.
Crux is the mantel between the second and third bolts. The rest is no harder than 5.9.
|By Ken McVicker|
Mar 15, 2003
Great crux near the top. It's easy down low but get harder as you go.
Great sunny day. Lots of observer from the hiking trail below. 20+ people watched me flail. Sorry no sunbathing women.
This rating is right on.
|By TJ Quirk|
From: Parker, CO
Mar 14, 2010
Strength required up to the first bulge. Good balance required through the reach over the second bulge to the jug. Love the comitting dyno over the second bulge. Need strength to finish the sequence to reach over and right of the anchors to the great handhold on top.
|By Jon Solove|
From: Denver, CO
Apr 4, 2010
Very cool route. Be careful not to go too far left - there is some loose, spongy rock that looks like it's ready to come off. It's off route, but weirdly inviting until you touch it....
|By Stephen Palermo|
Dec 4, 2010
You'll want a couple of double draws for the bolts above the bulges to reduce rope drag.